I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 1 



' 573 



lUSITED STATES OF AMERICA, 



•!iii!l! 




HISTORICAL RELICS 



OF THE 



ALSO, 

A COXCISE WHITE MOU^■TAI^r GUIDE; AND A METEOROLOGICAL 
TABLE FOR 1853-4, GIVING THE INDICATIONS OF THE THERMOM- 
ETER. ON THE TOP OF MOUNT WASHINGTON, AT SUNRISE, 
NOON, AND SUNSET, WITH A SYNOPSIS OF THE ^^,.^ 
SAME FOR EACH SUMMER MONTH. 



JOHN II. SPAULDING 
M 







B S T N : 
PUBLISHED BY NATHANIEL NOYES, 

No. 11 CORNHILL. 

1855. 



OFCCr 



• Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, hj 
J. H. SPAULDING, 
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetta. 



c.-]^ 



Stereotyped by 

HOBART & R0BBIN8, 

New England Tjpe and Stereotype Foundery, 



INTRODUCTION 



There may be no locality combining more general interest 
for the pleasure-seeking tourist than the White Mountains. 
Here every season thousands come from different climes, on a 
pilgrimage, that they may pay most worshipful tribute in 
spirit-felt wonder, and songs of praise. My apology for 
attempting to originate and compile the following pages, is 
the belief that the curiosity of the travelling public requires 
a work embodying my design. The pencil of " Oakes " and/ 
the pen of ' ' Beckett ' ' have nicely defined every explored^ 
locality, interestingly connected with the particular geography 
of these mountains ; besides which, the number of those 
may be called " le(/ion " who have made fancied famous 
record for the world of their White Mountain impressions. 
These mountains are a fadeless pictured page in Nature's 
wonderful book, — or a gigantic monument of ruins formed 
by an overwhelming change, that widely disfigured the origi- 
nal geological formation of this wild region ; and as a massive 
rock-shadow in a strange land, is to a journey-sick pilgrim 
with a gushing cold-water spring by his feet, so my impres- 
sions of these famous " old peaks " now rise to my sight. 
An ambitious presence in fancy is with me now, with a voice 
saying, like a prophetic whisper from " Gkcistland,^^ " Res- 
cue froin the twilight of forgetfulness the Historical Relics 
, 1* 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

OF THE White Mountains ! " The curious data of olden timea 
— the antiquities of this anciently named Agiochook, with 
the statistical facts of modern origin, necessary for a concise 
history of ' ' these hald old heads of nature ' ' — have never been 
tangibly combined. The trials and daring exploits of the 
fearless adventurers, who in other days filled the historic 
blank of this renowned locality, are rich with rarities for a 
work of interest to the reading world. Their life-relics have 
twined around them, by traditionary remembrance, pleasant 
associations of undecayable interest. We may for future 
visions gaze back from the cloud-capped crags into the valley 
of the past, and rescue from the oblivious mist of years the 
oral monuments, that, tinctured by the life-passion of times 
long gone, linger like visions of light upon the map of 
memory. 

Vanity is not the power that prompts me to desire success 
in this task ; but as storm and time cover the names chiselled 
upon the top crag of Mount Washington with moss, so, 
with a round of years, "Old Mortality" should come, to 
brighten vip the vestiges of the past, and catalogue new 
events with the re-chiselled. 

The antiquarian collections of interesting facts, found in the 
library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, having been 
open to my inquiry, my humble tribute of respect is due that 
society for the arrangement ])y which my research has been 
favored; and their assistant librarian, John Appleton, M.D., 
is, for his politeness to me as a stranger, deserving my last- 
ing gratitude. The kindness of J. M. Kix, Esq., of Lancas- 
ter, in giving me free access to his library of choice books, is 
happily remembered. N. Noyes, Esq., of Boston, and B. F. 
Whidden, Esq., of Lancaster, have my sincere thanks for 
assisting me in obtaining the facts here registered, from the 
most authentic records. J. H. S. 

Lancaster. June, 1855. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Legendary Origin of White IMouulains, 
First Tisit, in the Year 1631, 



PAGE 

1 

2 

Origin of Name " Crystal Hills," ^ 

Darby Field's Tisit, 1642, 4 

Indian Yeneration for Agiochook, . ■" ° 

Geographical Situation, ^ 

Geological Features, ^ 

Minerals, ^ 

Scientific Measurements of the Mountains, 12 

Height of the White Mountains, ^^ 

Perpetual Congelation, 1^ 

Snow Arch and Bank, 1^ 

Dining under Forty Feet of Snow, 15 

Alpine Flowers, 1^ 

The Veteran Pilot, 16 

First White-Mountain Guide, 16 

First Hotel, 17 

Indian Prophecy on " Giant's Grave," 17 

The " White-Mountain Giant," 18 

Place of his Birth, 18 

Record of his Strength, 20 

Cai-rying the Kettle and Deer, 20 

Haltei'-Breaking the Mountain Buck, 20 

The Giant lugging the Old Bear, 20 

First White-Mountain Bear-Show, 21 

Catching the Wildcat with a Withe, 21 

The Two Close Shots, 22 

Ethan's Pond, 23 

The Giant can*ying a Lady, 23 

The Men who named the Mountain, 23 

First Night spent on Mount Washington, 24 

Blue Pond and the Giant's Load, 24 

First Mount-Washington Bridie-Path, 24 

Location of that Old Path, 25 

Ethan's Stone Cabin, 25 

The Old Iron Chest and Roll of Lead, 25 

First Ladies on Mount Washington, 25 

First Horseback Ride, ■ 2G 

White-Mountain Guides, ... 27 

Tradition of Silver and Gold. 28 



YIII CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Tradition of Carbuncles, 30 

Carbuncle Hunters, 31 

The Red Man's Curse, 31 

The Indian Ghost, 31 

Lost Spirits' Looking-Glass, 31 

Rogers and his Rangers, 32 

Silver Image, Wampum, and Money, 33 

Rangers' Relics found, 36 

Strange Sights seen, 38 

The Old Fortune-Teller, 41 

Search for Silver Image, etc., 42 

The Old Brass Plate, 48 

Discovery of the Notch, 49 

The Hunters Nash and Sawyer, 49 

Description of Notch, 49 

Silver Cascade, 50 

The Flume, 50 

First Settler through the Notch, 51 

The First Female, 51 

« Granny Stalbird's " Rock, 52 

Story of " Nancy's Rock and Brook," 52 

First Goods brought up the Notch, 54 

First Produce carried down, 55 

First House in the Notch, 55 

Avalanche of the Mountain, 56 

Origin of Indian Fire-Worship, 57 

Destruction of the Willey Family, 68 

Names of the Family, • ... 59 

Wonderful Escapes, 69 

Destruction of " Ethan's Cabin," 60 

Origin of Peabody River, 60 

Darby Field's Second Visit, 61 

Death of the English Baronet, 62 

Death-Leap of the Moose and Dog, 64 

Indian Exile Pealsiicep, 64 

Silver-Mine found, 68 

White-Mountain Hermit, 68 

The Stolen White Girl, 69 

White-Mountain Hotel, 71 

Dwelling-Place in the Clouds, 72 

Nazro's Temple Vision, 72 

Summit House, Mount Washington, 74 

Tip-Top House, Mount Washington, 74 

Mount- Washington Carriage-Road, 76 



CONTENTS. IX 

PAGB 

White-Mountain Objects of Interest, • 78 

The Crystal Cascade, 78 

The Hermit's Lake, 79 

Fall of a Thousand Streams, 80 

Tuckerman's Ravine, 80 

Glen Elise Falls, 80 

Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, 80 

" Gulf of Mexico," 81 

Bones in the " Burnt District," 82 

The " Devil's Den," 83 

Bearing lind Distances of "White Mountains, 84 

Height, Bearing and Distances of other Mountains from Mt. Washington, . 84 

Franconia and its Attractions, 85 

The " Old Man of the Mountain," 86 

The Pool, 86 

The Flume, 87 

The Basin, 87 

The Cascade, 87 

Mount Lafayette, or the " Great Haystack," 87 

Eagle Mountain, • 88 

Length of Days at the Summit of Mount Washington, 88 

Therraometrical Table for 1853, .89 

Summary of the Weather for same, 91 

Thermometrical Table for 1854 92 

Summary of the Weather for same, 94 

Routes and Distances to the Mountains, .,.,..... .97 



HISTORICAL RELICS 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 



LEGENDARY ORIGIN OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Cold storms were in the northern wilderness, and a 
lone red hunter wandered without food, chilled by the 
frozen wind. He lost his strength, and could find no 
game; and the dark cloud that covered his life-path 
made him weary of wandering. He fell down upon the 
snow, and a dream carried him to a wide, happy valley, 
filled with musical streams, where singing birds and game 
were plenty. His spirit cried aloud for joy; and the 
" Great Master of Life ^^ waked him from his sleep, gave 
him a dry coal and a flint-pointed spear, telling him that 
by the shore of the lake he might live, and find fish with 
his spear, and fire from his dry coal. One night, when 
he had laid down his coal, and seen a warm fire spring up 
therefrom, with a blinding smoke, a loud voice came out 
of the flame, and a great noise, like thunder, filled the 



Z HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

air ; and there rose up a vast pile of broken rocks. Out 
of the cloud resting upon the top came numerous streams, 
dancing down, foaming cold ; and the voice spake to the 
astonished red hunter, saying, ^^ Here the Great Spirit 
will dwell, and watch over his favorite children^ — Old 
Legend. 

FIRST VISIT, IN 1631. 

Dr. Belknap, the learned historian of New Hampshire, 
gives Walter Neal the credit of being the first explorer of 
these mountains, as early as the year 1632. Morrill's N. 
H. Gazetteer of 1817 concludes, from the best authorities, 
that Robert Neal, Walter Neal and others, visited these 
mountains as early as the year 1631. Josselyn, in his 
New England Rarities, gives the following description, 
which, with little variation, is found also in Relknap, as 
an extract from Hubbard's MS. History, credited to 
Walter Neal : 

" Four score miles (upon a direct line) to the N. W. of 
Scarboro' a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E. an 
hundred leagues, known by the name of White Hills, upon 
which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty 
miles oJBf at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore 
to these hills, and they are inaccessible but by the gulleys 
which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gulleys 
grow savin bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 3 

help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the 
highest of these mountairi.s is a large level, or plain, of a 
day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At 
the further end of this plain is another hill, called the 
'Sicgarloafy to outward appearance a rude heap of mass- 
ive stones, piled one upon another ; and you may, as you 
ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were 
going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, 
till you come to the top, which will require half a day's 
time, ^and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also 
a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear 
water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down ; 
but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill 
you may see the whole country around about. It is far 
above the lower clouds, and from hence we beheld vapor 
(like a great pillar) drawn up by the sunbeams out of a 
great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into 
a cloud. The country beyond these hills, northward, is 
daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as thick as 
mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick 
woods." * — iV. E. Rarities, 3-4. 

* Another writer, after giving a similar description, adds, " We 
had great expectation of finding precious stones on these moun- 
tains ;" and something resembling crystals being picked up, was 
sufficient to give them the name of " Crystal Hills." They were 
long called by that naane. — Author. 



4 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

DARBY FIELD'S VISIT, IN 1642. 

June 4itk, 1642. — " Darby Field " (says Winthrop, in 
his Journal), "an Irishman, living about Piscat, being 
accompanied with two Indians, went to the top of the 
White Hill. He made his journey in eighteen days. His 
relation, at his return, was, that it was about 160 miles 
from Saco ; that after 40 miles travel he did, for the most 
part, ascend; and within 12 miles of the top was neither 
tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the 
top of, sometimes ; but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a 
ridge, between two valleys, filled with snow, out of which 
came two branches of the Saco river, which met at the 
foot of the hill, where was an Indian town, of some 200 
people. Some of them accompanied him within 8 miles 
of the top, but durst go no further, telling him that no 
Indian ever dared to go higher, and that he would die if 
he went. So they staid there till his return, and his two 
Indians took courage by his example, and went with him. 
They went divers times through thick clouds, for a good 
space ; and within 4 miles of the top they had no clouds, 
but very cold. By the way among the rocks there was 
two ponds : one a blackish water, and the other reddish. 
The top of all was plain, about 60 ft. square. On the 
north side was such a precipice as they could scarcely dis- 
cern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. O 

the top, and moderate heat. All the country about him 
seemed a level, except here and there a hill rising above 
the rest, and far beneath them. He saw, to the north, a 
great water, which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but 
could see no land beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as 
if it had been within 20 miles. He saw, also, a sea to 
the eastward, which he judged to be the gulf of Canada. 
He saw some great waters in parts to the westward, which 
he judged to be the great lake Canada river (St. Lawrence) 
came out of. lie found there much Muscovy glass ; they 
could rive out pieces 40 ft. long, and 7 or 8 broad. 
When he came back to the Indians, he found them drying 
themselves by the fire; for they had a great tempest of 
wind and rain. About a month after, he went again, 
with five or six of his company. Then they had some 
wind on the top, and some clouds above them, which hid 
the sun. They brought some stones, which they supposed 
had been diamonds ; but they were most crystal." * — 
Winthrop's Journal^ p. 247. 

INDIAN VENERATION FOR AGIOCHOOK. 

According to antiquarian research, the aboriginal name 
of the White Mountains was "Agiochook ;" spelt, also, Agio- 

* We may reasonably conclude that Darby Field's trail was up 
4.he- ridge between Tuckermau's Ravine and the valley of Dry 
River. — Authgr. 



U HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

cochook, Agicoochooke, Agriochooke; signifying, by ancient 
Indian nomenclature, " Mountain of the Snounj Forehead, 
a'iid Home of the Great Spirit.'" Schoolcraft, in his " Indian 
Wigwam," page 248, gives, as the Algonquin pronuncia- 
tion of these mountains, " Waubik," or " Waumbick ;" 
meaning "W/^zYe i?ocZ:." Becket, in his "Guide," calls 
them, from ancient authority, " Waumbeket Methna," sig- 
nifying mountains of the " Syiowy Foreheads.'' The lore 
of legend, the voice of tradition, and the record of history, 
point to these mountains as a locality of great interest. 
In olden times, from ftir and near have come the brave 
and fair red children of the wilderness, to offer, in wild, 
shadowy glens, their sacrifices of vengeance and love ; and 
where their songs rose, with the echoes of thundering 
waterfalls, to mingle with the roaring wind of the tempest 
cloud, upon the snow-«rowned rock, there they rever- 
ently believed the Great Spirit listened with satisfliction 
to their tributes of esteem. When the first white man 
came here, to climb to the top of this bald mountain, an 
old Indian, with his tomahawk of stone, flint-pointed ar- 
row, and tanned war-dress, from the skins of moose and 
bear, standing proudly erect, shook his head, and said, 
"The Great Spirit dwells there; he covers steps above the 
green leaves with the darkness of the fire tempest. No 
foot-marks are seen returning from his home in the clouds." 
The explorer's thirst for daring adventure overruled the 



THE \nnTE MOUNTAINS. 7 

fear created by the Indians' superstition ; and, after learn- 
ing that the Great Spirit sent a high wind, in a thick 
mist, and caught up to the top of Agiochook a single sanop 
and his squaw, that the wilderness and all the mountains 
except this, might be covered for two suns with water, and 
that they might then return as the only mortals who should 
ever come down the " White Rock " from his dwelling 
place, he went to the top, and safely returned. All old 
authentic records agree, that the aborigines unitedly had 
a peculiar superstitious veneration for these mountains. 
They considered them the dwelling-place of the invisible 
One, who, with a motion of his hand, could raise a storm ; 
and accordingly they deemed it pardonless sacrilege to 
ascend them. Traditions teach us that a few have been 
found so daring (in the long history of the Indians) as to 
press, with their moceasined feet the moss that grows 
above the region of scrub vegetation ; and such have been 
doomed to wander forever invisibly among wild gorges, 
with no resting-place save the damp, cold caverns in the 
rocks, and no hope of ever reaching the '■'■happy land^^'' 
beyond the setting sun. To this day, those are to be 
found who credulously believe that the strange noises often 
heard among the shadowy cliffs (instead of giving credit to 
wolves and wild-cats) proceed from lost spirits, that miser- 
ably exist here in hopeless torment, perpetually bewailing 
their fate. 

2* 



O HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
These mountains are situated in the State of New 
Hampshire, and County of Coos. Their latitude is 44° 
16' 341'' north, and longitude 77° 20' west. Since their 
discovery by the early voyagers along the wild coast of 
New England, they have ever been regarded with won- 
der and admiration. Deep, shadowy gorges, where the 
everlasting waterfall lives among massy crags, with its 
endless thunder-song; the yawning chasms, filled with 
snow, and romantic, flowery glens, shaded by a gnarled 
growth of old forest-trees, combined with an area of fifty 
thousand three hundred and forty-one acres of shattered 
rocks, piled high up to the clouds, in the wildest disorder 
imaginable, form the remarkable outline of this famous 
locality. No wonder that the rude, nature-tanned son of 
the wilderness, as he gazed upon this gigantic pile of rocks, 
standing up from its original bed six thousand two hundred 
and eighty-five feet into the clouds, was filled with super- 
stitious veneration ; for here, in all coming time, the en- 
lightened sons of science may pay willing homage, where 
the Great Spirit dwelt in storms, and gave the thunder 
his voice, and the lightning the flash of his anger ! 

GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 
According to the report of the geological surveyor of 
the State of New Hampshire, Dr. C. T. Jackson, the feat- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 9 

ures of these mountains, geologically considered, possess 
little peculiar interest. The rocks in places consist of a 
coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, and con- 
taining a few crystals of black tourmaline, and quartz. 
The cone of Mount Washington and its summit are covered 
with myriads of angular and flat blocks, and slabs of mica 
slate, piled in confusion one upon another. These are 
identical in nature with the rocks in place, and leave no 
marks of transportation or abrasion by the action of water. 
The nucleus of these mountains is granite rock, and the 
mica slate found on the top of the different peaks is but a 
superficial crust ; and it is observable that the sedimentary 
deposit, or granite, has been disturbed by upheavals, 
which, with the action of a comparatively moderate heat 
for ages, has doubled back and twisted and broken these 
large sheets of mica slate, and left the fragments exposed 
in the wildest confusion, for mortal wonder. 

M1NRRAL>S. 

Various local traditions are in existence to prove the 
adventurous belief of many, that yet, in some unexplored 
or enchantment-guarded places, are mines of wealth of 
immense value. These tend to tantalize the imagination 
of many; with how much probability for future real- 
ization is not my province to decide. In this book will 
be found certain of these traditions, which, in their proper 



10 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

places are deemed worthy of record, for the gratification 
of public curiosity. 

The minerals yet obtained among these mountains are 
not satisfactory to the spirit of discovery. Southerly 
from the top of Mount Washington is found a vein of 
quartz, containing crystals of fluor-spar of an apple-green 
color, and crystallized in its primary form. This attracts 
the attention of collectors of minerals, and is worthy of 
notice as a curiosity. A few quartz crystals, in the form 
of six-sided prisms, also occur at the same place. Near 
the location of these crystals has been found, lately, a 
new bed of black tourmaline, which has furnished some 
finely-shaped crystals. These specimens are found in large 
masses of milk-quartz, near the route to the summit of the 
mountain, from the old Crawford or Davis path. On a 
branch of Dry river, have been found some remarkably 
large and transparent specimens of quartz crystallization, 
and much search has been made there for a bed of dia- 
monds that are of a rare quality. An old hunter (San- 
born) is now living, who faithfully affirms that, many 
years ago, while fishing, up a small branch of Dry river, 
under the eastern side of Mount Pleasant, he came to a 
place where the water ran between two high white rocks 
so covered with perfect diamonds that it was blinding to 
his eyes to look upon the same. He succeeded in break- 
ing off three with his fish-pole, which he sold for five dol- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 11 

lars each, at Old Abel Crawford's. Several exploring 
parties have been in search of this treasure ; and as lately 
as 1853 the same old gray-headed hunter who made the 
discovery, went with two other treasure-seekers, armed 
with drills and powder, &c., and made thorough search, 
for several days, among all the small northern branches 
of this river. Not far from the top of Mount Wash- 
ington, in every direction from that point, are found 
veins of white and rose-colored quartz, with here and 
there fine crystals of quartz ; and on Mount Franklin have 
been found many fine specimens of crystallization. In or 
near the gateway of the Notch are found rare amethystine 
crystals, specimens of which will readily sell to mineralo- 
gists for five dollars each. Tin is found in veins on some 
of the southern spurs of these mountains ; in the valley 
of Dry Ptiver, are streams so impregnated with iron that 
the bushes and trees along their shores are loaded with red 
rust ; and in such places not a fish, or thing of animal life, 
can be found. Particles of lead, with specks of silver, 
are found on a branch of Pcabody river ; but so far noth- 
ing of that kind has been found sufficient for important 
notice. As yet, there are many deep glens and wild crags 
in all this mighty pile of mountains, where the explorer 
has never left the print of his feet upon the moss. With- 
out doubt more minerals will be found before these moun- 
tains are perfectly well known. 



12 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

SCIENTIFIC MEASUREMENTS OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

Ilev. D. Cutler twice visited the Crystal Hills, in the 
beginning of the eighteenth century, and took barometrical 
observations, by which he calculates the highest peak to be 
ten thousand feet above the sea. 

Dr. Belknap, in his famous New Hampshire History, is 
persuaded by his observations, that the computation of ten 
thousand feet as the height of the Crystal Hills is too 
moderate, and he concludes that subsequent calculations 
will make them much higher. Mr. Bowditch published, in 
the transactions of the American Academy, a logarithmic 
calculation, founded on Professor Peck's barometrical ob- 
servations, giving the Crystal Hills an elevation of seven 
thousand and fifty-five feet. Capt. Partridge, United 
States engineer, visited these mountains in 1804, and 
took barometrical observations on several of the principal 
peaks. His calculations give to the highest summit an 
elevation of six thousand one hundred and three feet. 

July 2d, 1816, a mountain barometer of Englefield's 
construction stood, on the highest peak, at noon, 24.23, 
the accompanying thermometer being at 57. Same day, 
at Cambridge, Mass., similar observations were taken ; and 
a logarithmic calculation, made by Professor Farrar, from 
the data thus obtained, resulted in establishing six thou- 
sand two hundred and twenty-five feet above the waters 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 13 

of the ocean as the height of Mount Washington. A geo- 
metrical admeasurement taken by Professor Shuttuck, on 
the north-west side of the mountain, on the plain near the 
present ruins of the Fabyan Stand, gave to the summit an 
elevation of six thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet 
above the level of the sea. William Maclue, author of 
the "United States Geological Map," made geometrical 
admeasurements on both sides of the mountain ; and his 
conclusions fixed the height at six thousand two hundred 
and sixty-six feet. In 1840, C. T. Jackson, geological 
surveyor of New Hampshire, by means of barometrical 
and thermometrical observations, made for a period of 
twelve hours, at a time when the weather was remarkably 
favorable, and the atmospheric pressure was stationary 
throughout the state, as shown by other observations made 
at the same time, ascertained the height of Mount Wash- 
ington to be six thousand two hundred and twenty-six feet 
above high-water mark at Portsmouth. According to the 
Cincinnati Times of Dec. 1st, 1853, the United States 
coast surveyors, in Aug., 1853, made, by calculation, the 
summit of Mount Washington six thousand seven hundred 
and forty-three feet above the sea. William A. Goodwin, 
Esq., one of the engineers of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence 
rail road, by a survey made by levelling from the ocean to 
the top of Mount Washington, makes the height of that 
peak six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet. Pro- 



14 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

fessor Guyot, of Cambridge, Mass., by barometrical ob- 
servations taken at the same time, nearly agrees with 
Mr. Goodwin's survey. This is, doubtless, the actual 
height of Mount Washington. In 1854, Messrs. Ricker 
and Cavis, chief engineers of the White Mountain car- 
riage-road, by actual survey, made the height six thousand 
two hundred and eighty-four feet. 

HEIGHT OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



Mt. Washington 


, 6,285 ft. 


Mt. Monroe, 


5,349 ft 


" Adams, 


5,790 " 


" Franklin, 


4,850 " 


" Jeflferson, 


5,710 « 


" Pleasant, 


4,715 <' 


" Madison, 


5,361 " 


" Clinton, 


4,200 " 


" Clay, 


5,011 " 







PERPETUAL CONGELATION. 

Many suppose that in the darkest and most shadowy 
gorges of these mountains snow and ice may be found 
at any season of the year. This is a mistaken opinion ; 
for it can be satisfactorily proved, by those who know, 
that the latest appearance of old snow, for several years 
past, has been in Tuckerman's Ravine, as late as Aug. 
20th. This ravine, by observation, is found to retain its 
winter burden the longest ; and being, as it is, fairly ex- 
posed to the sun, this, unexplained, appears remarkable. 
The northern winds of our extremely cold winters pile 
there, from the surrounding summits, a good share of the 



THE WUITE MOUNTAINS. 15 

snow that falls on them; and there is but little doubt that 
in our most severe seasons for wintry storms, the snow- 
drift in this wild gorge is a hundred feet deep. Much has 
been written and said about the endless snow-arch and per- 
petual snow-bank of Tuckerman's Ravine, by those, even, 
who, with the light of science around them, should be 
aware that in the latitude of these mountains the line of 
perpetual congelation is, by scientijfic observation, found 
to be at an elevation of seven thousand eight hundred and 
seventy-two feet above the sea level. To strengthen the 
conclusion that the snow may here be seen in piles a hun- 
dred feet deep, the following true account may here be 
noticed : 

DINING UNDER FORTY FEET OP SNOW. 

The water that runs from Tuckerman's Ravine passes 
under the great snow-bank, and, with the warmth of sum- 
mer, wears a curious channel. July 16th, 1854, D. O. 
Macomber, president of the Mount Washington carriage- 
road, and Engineer C. H. V. Cavis, of that road, with the 
author of these pages, dined in that snow arch. It was 
then two hundred and sixty-six feet long, eighty-four 
feet wide, and forty feet high, by measurement, to the 
snow roof, from which constantly dripped down cold ice- 
water around us. A heavy thunder-shower, while there, 
passed over us, and after the shower we found any 



16 HISTOllIOAL RELICS OF 

quantity of little hardy alpine Jlowers, fresh and fair, 
watered by the water from the great bank. 

THE VETERAN PILOT. 
In 1792, near the famous " Giant's Grave,"* lived a 
solitary pioneer of this mountain wilderness ; and a rude 
cabin of logs, covered with bark, was his only shelter. This 
man had no neighbor nearer than twelve miles, and naught 
but a rough hunting-path, marked by spotted trees, led 
thither through the notch. Wild beasts were plenty in all 
this mountain region. The first glowing accounts of the 
early hunters scarcely equalled the reality. All the streams 
were full of trouts. Moose, bears, wolves and wild-cats, 
were all very numerous in their undisturbed haunts, within 
the shadow of these towering crags, where the Indian 
hunter dared not leave his foot-marks. The name of this 
white man, who here lived in solitude, was Abel Crawford 
— the one who in after years most justly gained the title 
of the Veteran Pilot. He was the first guide for gentle- 
men strangers, who first came here to see the mountain 
scenery, independent of any scientific purpose. Let the 
name Craioford live with this mountain memory ! The 
steps of the old Veteran Pilot were among those gray old 
clifis, and dark, shadowy gorges, when log-cabins were the 
only habitation in all this northern wilderness. Then he 

* A well-known mound near the Fabyan ruins by the northern 
shore of the Amonoosuc. 



THE WUITE MOUNTAINS. 17 

dressed in the tanned skins of the moose, and became in 
the chase a perfect Nimrod and a true disciple of the 

famed Izaak Walton. 

FIRST HOTEL. 

By the present ruins of the old Fabyan stand, on the 
westerly end of the " Giant's Grave," was erected the first 
public house for White Mountain visitors, in the year 
1803. A record of this fact is found in E. A. Crawford's 
journal, page twenty, of which the following is a true 
extract : " My grandfather built a large and convenient 
two-story dwelling on an elevated spot (this elevation has 
since been named Giant's Grave). This house had two 
stories under ground. From the chamber over this, in 
the second story, was an outside door, which opened so 
that one could walk out on this fine hill, from which, to 
the stranger, the view was beautiful." 

When owned by E. A. Crawford, in the year 1819, 
that house was burned ; and it is a singular fact that this 
is the only fine locality for a public (White Mountain) 
house, in full view from the tip-top rock of Mount Wash- 
ington ; and yet here three public houses have been burned 
since the year 1805, on and near this " Giant's Grave." 

INDIAN PROPHECY ON GIANT'S GRAVE. 

There is a strange tradition extant, of an Indian, who, 
lang years ago, stood on that mound, with a blazing pitch- 



18 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

pine torch, lighted at a tree struck by lightning, and, 
swinging it wildly around in the darkness, he said, " No 
pale-face shall take deep root here ; this the Great Spirit 
whispered in my ear^ 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN GIANT. 

The name of E. A. Crawford is deeply chiselled upon 
the rocks of this gigantic Mount built by nature (Mount 
Washington) ; and the lady who shared in life his joys 
and sorrows has, in her "White Mountain History," 
reared a testimonial to his memory. Will not my humble 
tribute of a stone, laid in silence upon his grave, be 
accepted by all who pleasantly cherish the remembrance of 
" Etha7i of the Hills,'" or the " White Mountain Giant " ? 

The subject of this sketch was born in Guildhall, Aver- 
ment, in the year 1792. When but a mere lad his parents 
moved to the White Mountains, and here he grew up a 
giant mountaineer, illustrating by his hardy habits, how 
daring enterprise and pure mountain climate nerve the man 
and stamp the hero upon mortality. Inheriting the house on 
the westerly end of the " Giant's Grave," with an encum- 
brance that made him worse than destitute of all worldly 
goods, he was one day shocked, when returning from 
hunting on the hills, to see his home burned down, and 
his wife and infant sheltered only by an open shed. 
Twelve miles one way, and six the other, to neighbors, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 19 

here he was with his little family in the wilderness, desti- 
tute of every comfort, save that of hope. The sunshine of 
joy, unclouded by sorrow, and the warm smiles of good 
fortune, seem ever attendant upon the lives of some, con- 
stantly beckoning their favorites forward to the green 
fields of abundance, and bowers of pleasure and ease. 
Others, perchance born under a less favoring star, in their 
growth rise up like giants, breasting manfully, step by 
step, the wrecking storms of adversity, and by their own 
heroic exertions, hew out for themselves characters deeply 
lined, amid the black shadows of sorrow and disappoint- 
ment. Of such a mould was the spirit of Ethan A. Craw- 
ford. The inconveniences of poverty, that come like a 
strong man armed upon poor mortality, and sickness 
and the many hardships linked with every-day life in a 
new settlement, fell to this man's share. Yet he cheer- 
fully performed the duties of life with an iron resolution, 
that stood misfortune's shocks as firmly as his own moun- 
tains stand storms and the changes of time. He was a 
tall, finely-proportioned man ; and, though called by many 
the "White Mountain Giant," beneath the rough exterior 
of the hardy mountaineer glowed constantly, in a heroic 
heart, the warm fire of love and manly virtue. The art- 
less prattle of his little children was sweet music to his 
spirit, and his ambitious aspirations were constantly 
invigorated by social comfort with his little family. 
3* 



20 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

CARRYING THE KETTLE AND DEER. 

The first display of Ethan's (jiant strength recorded ia 
of his carrying on his head, across the Amonoosuc river, a 
potash-kettle, weighing four hundred pounds. 

In 1821 he caught a full-grown deer, in a wild gorge, 
four miles from home ; and as the trap had not broken his 
leg, and he appeared quite gentle, he thought to lead him 
home. Failing in his attempt to do this, he shouldered 
him and trudged homeward, over hill and through tangled 
brushwood, feeling by the way, perchance, like Crusoe, 
with his lamas, how fine it would be to have a park and 
many deer to show his visitors. But his day-visions van- 
ished ; for, on arriving at home, he found the deer so much 
injured that he died. 

At another time, he cauyht a iv'dd mountain-huck in a 
snare ; and, finding him too heavy to shoulder, he made 
him a halter of withes, and succeeded in halter-leading 
him so completely, that, after nearly a day spent in the 
attempt, he arrived at home with his prize, much to the 
wonder of all. 

THE GIANT LUGGING THE OLD BEAR. 

In 1829 Ethan caught a good-sized bear in a trap ; 
and thought to bind him with withes, and lead him home 
as he had the buck. In attempting to do this, the bear 
would catch with his paws at the trees ; and our hero, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 21 

not willing to be outwitted by a bear, managed to get him 
on his shoulder, and, with one hand firmly hold of his nose, 
carried him two miles homeward. The bear, not well sat- 
isfied with his prospects, entered into a serious engage- 
ment with his captor, and by scratching and biting suc- 
ceeded in tearing off his vest and one pantaloon-leg, so 
that Ethan laid him down so hard upon the rocks that he 
died. That fall he caught ten bears in that same wild 
glen. 

The first bear kept at the White Mountains for a show 
was caught by Ethan, while returning from the Mountain 
with two young gentlemen he had been up with as guide. 
Seeing a small bear cross their path, they followed him 
to a tree, which he climbed. Ethan climbed after, 
and, succeeding in getting him, tied his mouth up with 
a handkerchief, and backed him home. This bear he 
provided with a trough of water, a strap and pole ; and 
here he was for a long time kept, as the first tame bear of 
the mountains. This was about the year 1829. 

Ethan caught a loild-cat loith a hirch vnthe I Once, 
when passing down the Notch, he was attracted to a tree 
by the barking of his dog, where, up among the thick 
branches, he discovered a full-grown wild-cat. Having 
only a small hatchet with him, he cut two long birch 
withes, and, twisting them well together, made a slip- 
noose, which he run up through the thick leaves ; and 



22 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

while the eat was watching the dog, he managed to get 
this noose over his head, and, with a sudden jerk, brought 
him to the ground. His dog instantly seized him, but 
was willing to beat a retreat till reinforced by his master, 
who with a heavy club came to the rescue. The skin of 
this cat, when stretched, measured over six feet. 

Ethan's two close shots are worthy of note. One fall, 
while setting a sable line, about two miles back of the 
Notch, he discovered a little lake, set, like a diamond, in 
a rough frame-work of beetling crags. The fresh signs of 
moose near, and trouts seen in its shining waters, was 
sufficient inducement to spend a night by its shady shore. 
About sunset, while engaged in catching a string of trouts, 
his attention was suddenly arrested by a loud splashing in 
the still water around a rocky point, where, on looking, 
he saw two large brown moose pulling up lily-roots, and 
fighting the flies. Prepared with an extra charge, he 
fired ; and before the first report died in echoes among the 
peaks, the second followed, and both moose fell dead in 
the lake. Ethan labored hard to drag his game ashore ; 
but late that evening bright visions of marrow-bones and 
broiled trouts flitted like realities around him. That 
night a doleful dirge rose in that wild gorge ; but our 
hero slept soundly, between two warm moose-skins. He 
cared not for the wild wolves that scented the taint of the 
fresh blood in the wind. That little mountain sheet is 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 23 

now, from the above circumstance, known as " EthaiVs 
Pond:' 

Ethan was always proud to speak of how he carried a 
lady two miles down the mountain on his shoulders. It 
was no uncommon affair for him to shoulder a man and 
lug him down the mountain ; but his more delicate 
attempts to pack a young lady down the steep rocks, he 
seemed to regard as an important incident in his adven- 
turous career. Miss E. Woodward was the name of the 
lady who received from the Mountain Giant such marked 
attention. By a wrong step she became very lame, and 
placing, as well as he could, a cushion of coats upon his 
right shouldoi', the lady became well seated, and he 
thus brought her down to where they left their horses. 

By Adino N. Brackett's Journal, published in Moore's 
His. Col., vol. 1st, page 97, it appears that Adino N. 
Brackett, John W. Weeks, Gen. John Willson, Charles J. 
Stuart, Esq., Noyes S. Dennison, and Samuel A. Pearson, 
Esq., from Lancaster, N. H., with Philip Carrigan and E. 
A. Crawford, went up, July 31st, 1820, to name the dif- 
ferent summits. Gen. John Willson, of Boston, is now, 
1855, the only survivor of that party. "They made 
Ethan their pilot, and loaded him with provisions and 
blankets, like a pack-horse ; and then, as they began to 
ascend, they piled on top of his load their coats." 
This party had a fine time ; and, after giving the names 
of our sages to the different peaks, according to their alti- 



24 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

tude, they drank health to these hoary cliffs, in honor tc 
the illustrious men whose names they were, from this date, 
to bear ; then, curled down among the rocks, without fire, 
on the highest crag, they doubtless spent the first night 
mortals ever spent on that elevated place. In the morn- 
ing, after seeing the sun rise out of the ocean far, far 
below them, they descended westerly from the apex about 
a mile, and came to a beautiful sheet of water (Lake of 
the Clouds), near a ridge of rocks, which, when they left, 
they named ^^Blue Pond." It doubtless looked blue to 
them ; for something they carried in bottles so weakened 
the limbs of one of the party that Ethan was, from this 
place, burdened with a back-load of mortality, weighing 
two hundred pounds, down to the Amonoosuc valley. Thus 
we find Ethan most emphatically the " Giant of the Monn- 
tains" He never hesitated to encounter any danger that 
appeared in his path, whether from wild beasts, flood, or 
mountain tempest. 

The First Bridle-path on the White Mountains was 
made in 1819. As there had got to be ten or twelve 
visitors a year, to see these mountains, at this date, Ethan 
thought, to accommodate his company, he would cut a path 
as far as the region of scrub vegetation extended. It had 
been very difiicult to go without a road, clambering over 
trees, up steep ledges, through streams, and over the hedgy 
gcrub-growth ; and accordingly, when the fact of a path being 



THE WUITE MOUNTAINS. 25 

made was published, the fame of this region spread like 
wild-fire. This path was started at the head of the notch 
near Gibbs' House, and, extending to the top of Mount 
Clinton, reached from thence to the top of Mount Wash- 
ington, nearly where Gibbs' Path now is. Soon after the 
completion of this path, the necessity of a cabin, where 
visitors could stop through the night, was perceivable by 
Ethan ; and accordingly he built a stone cahin, near the 
top of JMount "Washington, by a spring of water that lives 
there, and spread in it an abundance of soft moss for beds, 
that those who wished to stop here through the night, to 
see the sun set and rise, might be accommodated. This 
rude home for. the traveller was soon improved, and fur- 
nished with a small stove, an iron chest, and a long roll of 
sheet-lead ; — the chest was to secure from the bears and 
hedge-hogs the camping-blankets ; and, according to tradi- 
tion, around that old chest many who hungered have en- 
joyed a hearty repast. That roll of lead was for visitors 
to engrave their names on with a sharp iron. Alas ! that 
tale-telling sheet has been moulded into bullets, and that 
old chest was buried by an avalanche. How all things 
pass away ! 

In 1821 the first ladies visited Mount Washington. 
This party, of which these ladies numbered three, had 
Ethan for its guide, and, proceeding to the stone cabin, 
waited there through a storm for several days, that they 



26 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

might be the first females to accomplish the unrecorded 
feat of ascending Mount Washington. This heroic little 
party was the Misses Austin, of Portsmouth, N. H., being 
accompanied by their brother and an Esq. Stuart, of 
Lancaster. Everything was managed as much for their 
comfort as possible ; the little stone cabin was provided 
with an outside addition, in which the gentlemen staid, 
that their companions might be more retired and comfort- 
able. This party came near being what the sailor might 
call " weather-bound." They were obliged to send back 
for more provisions; and at last the severe mountain- 
storm passed away, and that for which they had ambi- 
tiously endured so much exposure was granted them. 
They went to the top, had a fine prospect, and, after an 
absence of five days, returned from the mountains, in fine 
spirits, highly gratified with their adventure. This heroic 
act should confer an honor upon the names of this pioneer 
party, as everything was managed with so much prudence 
and modesty that there was not left even a shadow for re- 
proach, save by those who felt themselves outdone ; so says 
record. 

In the summer of 1840 the first horse that ever climbed 
the rocks of Mount Washington was rode up by old Abel 
Crawford. The old man was then seventy-five years old, 
and, though his head was whitened by the snows of many 
winters, his blood was stirred, on that occasion, by the 



THE WUITE MOUNTAINS. 27 

ambitious animation of more youthful days. There ho 
sat proudly upon his noble horse, with uncovered head, 
and the wind played lightly with his venerable white 
locks. Truly that was a picture worthy an artist's skill. 
Holding that horse by the rein, there stood his son Ethan, 
as guide to his old fiither. The son and the parent ! — 
worthy representatives of the mighty monument, to the re- 
membrance of which, their pioneer exertions have added 
fadeless fame. From that day a new era dawned on these 
mountains. Forget not the veteran Abel, and Ethan " the 
While Mountain Giant." 

The White Mountain Guides should all be remembered. 
In our lengthy notice of Ethan, the White Mountain. 
Giant, we do not mean to eclipse the worthy deeds of 
other noble mountain spirits, who have followed his old 
path, and even made new ones for their own feet. This 
mountain region is truly haunted, as it were, by peculiar 
influences, that call to its attractions as dauntless men for 
guides as our New England mountain-land can boast. 
Ethan A. Crawford came here when this was a wilder- 
ness-land, unknown to fame. The fashionable world knew 
nothing of its peculiarities. He spent much time, even 
the energies of his life, exploring the wild gorges and dan- 
gerous peaks of the mountains, and became a mighty 
hunter. He was, in fact, the bold pioneer who, with his 
old father, opened the way whereby the " Crystal Hills " 
4 



28 HISTORICAL KELICS OF 

became known to the world. " Honor to whom honor is 
due ! " Then let us not be unmindful of Ethan, who 
grappled with nature in her wildness, and made gigantic 
difficulties surmountable ; and let us remember the names 
"Tom Crawford," "Hartford," "Hall," "Cogswell;" 
"Dana, and Lucius M. Rosebrook," "Leavitt," "Hayes," 
and others, who have followed piloting for a series of years 
on these mountains. These are all men in whose hands 
the tourist was comparatively safe ; and, though the most 
of the above names are with the past, others are on the 
stage, who have an ambitious desire to outdo, even, in 
skill and management, those whose footsteps they follow. 
We will not praise the living guides of the White Moun- 
tains; their actions speak monuments of honor to their 
own names. Have confidence in their integrity ; and may 
they never betray their trust ! 

TRADITIONS OF SILVER AND GOLD. 

From an ancient record, in manuscript, fOund in an old, 
worm-eaten chest, among files of papers relating to the 
early exploration and survey of the northern wilderness, 
appears the following : 

" Espying what could be found in this wild country, as 
we came to the shadow of this exceeding great mountain, 
we drew near to a little lake among high rocks. Here 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 29 

we still hunted a moose, and, kindling a fire of pine knots, 
enjoyed a great feast. Game was thick here; and we 
could as easily count the sand as the spotted fish in the 
stream. By this water we discovered a pine log, much 
decayed, with fire-marks on the ends, and the middle was 
burned out like as if a fire had been kindled on it to make 
it a rude canoe. We found good store of curious stones, 
that we esteemed to be diamonds (crystal quartz). At 
the foot of a high rock, near the water, we picked up cer- 
tain leaves of fine silver and gold as thick as a man's nail ; 
and we found all the little mountain streams shining with 
particles of silver, with many shining bits in the rocks. 
After many days of toilsome travel, we returned from this 
wonderful mountain, with bloody, bare feet, and got of the 
Indians moccasins, made of raw moose-hide. We found 
rude wigwams, made of poles stuck in the ground, with 
birch-bark spread over. Around these hunting places 
were many horns of moose, and piles of bones, eagle-claws 
and bear-skins, which made us liken these great valleys 
among the hills to the home of many wild beasts. No 
man, among all the wild men we met, dared go up to the 
high, naked rock, for fear the ' Great Master of Life ' 
would destroy them. In a black storm of rain that fell 
there, the mountain trembled, and the rocks were like 
altars burning with fire. From a peak of bare rocks we 
saw the wide land of the Iroquois Indians, with the great 



30 HlSTOrvICAL RELICS OF 

valley of the long Canada river. Lakes, high hills, and 
deep valleys, where wild men hunt elks, moose and bears, 
were around us. It is a terrible wilderness of mountains 
and game." — Old Manuscript. 

TRADITION OF CxVRBUNCLES. 

Some of the early explorers of these mountains with 
great solemnity affirmed that they saw, hanging from the 
crags, great carbuncles, whose brilliancy was glorious to 
behold. This report attracted the attention of adventur- 
ers ; and several exploring parties have visited these moun- 
tains, with the hope of finding rich and rare gems of great 
value ; but, though various attempts have been made to 
gain possession of these wonders, none have yet been ob- 
tained. It is recorded that some of these carhunde hunt- 
ers have taken with them spiritual advisers to " lay " or 
" exorcise " the supernatural guardians of the mountain 
wealth ; but all to no purpose. In an old White Mountain 
record is found a journal of a carbuncle seeker : — " Hear- 
ing that a glorious carbuncle had been found under a large 
shelving rock, difficult to obtain, placed there by the In- 
dians who killed one of their number, that an evil spirit 
might haunt the place, we went up Dry river, with guides, 
and had with us a good man to lay the evil spirit ; but 
returned sorely bruised, treasureless, and not even saw that 
wonderful sights Recently no mention has been made 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 31 

of wonderful carbuncles ; and there is a tradition that an 
old Indian pronounced a curse, called "Me red man's 
curse,''' upon the pale-faced gem-seekers; and when he 
died his last wish was (to save his spirit the trouble of 
keeping the mountain-treasure from the white man's pol- 
luting touch, by enchantment), that the Great Spirit would 
send a black storm of fire and thunder, and splinter the 
crags, and roll down the carbuncles with mighty ava- 
lanches, and bury them deeply in the valleys, beneath the 
ruins of rocks and trees. 

THE INDIAN GHOST. 
There are those now living in the shadow of these 
mountains who seem to believe that, every " fall of the 
leaf," on a certain night, a supernatural brightness glows 
upon a particular crag, and the giant ghost of an Indian 
warrior, fancifully arrayed in a black bear-skin war-robe, 
with a bloody stone tomahawk, and a broken horn-beam 
bow, may be seen dancing in the wind, by the light, to the 
measure of his self-san^ dirge. At such times the snow 
disappears from off the rocks around ; but no mountaineer 
has ever been found capable of climbing the ice-crags, to 
satisfy the curiosity whether or not fire-marks may at 
such times be found. 

LOST SPIRITS' LOOKING-GLASSES. 

If a humble addition may here be allowed, might not 

4^ 



32 



HISTORICAL RELICS OF 



these wonderful carbuncles have been merely rocks seen at 
a distance, covered with water or ice, with the sunlight 
reflected to favor the delusion? Or, if we need a tincture 
of the miraculous, perchance some of Darby Field's Mus- 
covy glass was so arranged by the mountain genii, as to 
answer for looking-glasses, in which lost Indian spirits 
might see themselves. But even this isinglass, of such 
size, cannot be found, for a wonder. Has not the brother 
of the speculative Yankee who attempted to whittle the 
north pole up for tooth-picks, spirited this even away, 
that it might be devoted to mechanical purposes ))y the 
utilitarian age? Speak, ye who can say ! 

ROGERS AND HIS RANGERS. 

The night of October 3d, 1765, the St. Francis Indians, 
at their village on the bank of the river for which their 
tribe was named, held a grand war-dance. Fair maidens 
and brave young warriors were there, with light hearts ; 
and wildly in the night rose their triumph-song, as they 
swung in air the scalp-locks of a hundred pale-faces. They 
dreamed not that a spy was in their ring, and that ere 
another sun the three pale-faced captives, who sorrowfully 
listened to their barbaric jubilee, would wade through 
their warm blood, and be far on the long trail over the 
mountains. 

Robert Rogers, dispatched, with two hundred (some his- 
torians say five hundred) tried rangers, through the long 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 33 

wilderness, to chastise these Indians lor that in celebration 
of which they this night held the great dance, was there ; 
and when daylight returned, their village was in ashes, 
and hundreds slept the sleep of death. Belknap, in his 
New Hampshire History, says: "The houses of these 
Indians were well furnished, and their church was richly 
adorned with plate." Two hundred guineas, with a silver 
image weighing eight pounds, and a great quantity of rich 
wampum, were taken from this church as lawful plunder. 
Satisfied with his work, Kogers made his retreat up the 
St. Francis river, intending with his men to pass the carry- 
ing-place to Magog Lake, thence home to the south part 
of Laconia : (N. H.). The snow came on deep, and, being 
pursued by the remnant left after the destruction of that 
Indian village, several of their number were killed ; and, 
after wandering many days, they became scattered, and 
many perished by hunger and cold. The early settlers 
of Cohos (Coos) found relics of this ill-fated party, and 
later, among the White Mountains sad vestiges arise in 
the twilight of tradition ; and, faithful to the living history 
of this famous mountain, they shall have record. 

SILVER BIAGE, WAJilPmi, AND MONEY. 

In the retreat and pursuit following the result of Rogers' 

expedition most of the rangers followed their leader's 

command, while small detached parties, throwing off all 

martial restraint, made independent homeward Irnils for 



34 HTBTORTCAL RELICS • OP 

themselves. One small party of nine, leaving the waters 
running northward, passed the highlands, and came upon 
a stream that evidently fell into the Connecticut. Here 
they resolved to strike that river at the head of the falls 
(now called Fifteen Miles Falls), southerly of Upper Cohos, 
and, following up the stream (John's river) that came from 
the " Crystal Hills," pass over to the valley of the Amo- 
noosuc, and through the Notch, homeward. This party 
had expected to meet a detachment on the Connecticut, 
from old No. 4 (now Charleston N. H.), with supplies; 
and, being disappointed in this, in a most travel-worn 
and destitute condition, after waiting several days they 
yielded to the guidance of an Indian runner, who offered 
to conduct them to the great pass of the " Crystal Hills." 
They did not dream that this Indian was acting false, by 
knowing the prophecy of the gray-headed old Indian, who 
in the St." Francis church said to the plunderers of the 
treasure there, " The Great Spii'it loill scatter darkness 
upon the path of the pale-faces ! " How literally this 
prophecy was fulfilled, the end shows more clearly than 
facts seen in the mist of dreams. This Indian guide led 
his charge up the Connecticut to the mouth of the next 
river, which he called Singrawack,* and from thence they 

* This name signifies "jFba7ni/ Stream of the White rock." 
In memory of a great hunter, Israel Stark, who long ago hunted 
in the valley of this stream, it has been called " Israel's river." 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 35 

followed up to near the foot of the White Mountains, where 
he left them. This little party had in charge the plunder 
taken from the Indian church, and to him who bore the 
treasure, the Indian gave a rude birch-bark map, descrip- 
tive of their route thence. The reason given by the Indian 
guide for going no further was pretended fear that the 
Great Spirit would kill him, if he left his footprints in the 
shadow of the great snowy Agiochook. The ranger who 
received the birch map did not notice an apparently 
accidental scratch given him on the back of his hand by 
the guide on the receipt of the map ; but when his hand 
began to swell, suspicion rested upon the false guide. 
Symptoms of poison became strikingly apparent, and the 
increasing inflammation gave speed to his blood, and fear 
mingled with pain pressed madness into his brain, and 
with frightful shrieks of rage he rushed to a high rock, 
and, throwing himself down, was dashed to pieces. The 
gloom of death in their midst, combined with the startling 
circumstances, was like a black night-shadow upon the 
future prospects of this little party; and, holding a brief 
council, the decision was that their companion came to his 
death by a slight wound of a rattlesnake's fang, designed 
by their Indian guide. With the remembrance of the 

This river tui'ns the machinery of the thriving village of Lancas- 
ter, as it passes through, on its foaming track to the broad Connect- 
icut, with which it mingles a mile below Lancaster village. 



36 HT?TORTOAL RELICS OF 

Indian prophecy fresh in mind, they resolved to bury the 
mangled remains of their mate, with his knapsack contain- 
ing the stolen treasure, carefully in a rude cave, where the 
red hunter dared not leave his footmarks. 

According to old tradition, of that party of nine but one 
ever reached the settlement below the mountains. Being 
misled by their false guide, they miscalculated as to the 
certainty of passing down the mountain notch ; and, being 
the distance of two river valleys to the northward of the 
point from which they might have passed through safely, 
they wandered many days in vain attempt to attain their 
object, and, after extreme suffering from hunger, and the 
rigorous storms of approaching winter, one only arrived to 
tell the sad story of misery and death. This ragged and 
forlorn-looking mortal had with him six knives, and in his 
bloody knapsack was a piece of human flesh, of which for 
the last eight days he declared he had eaten to support the 
flickering spark of life that now but faintly burned within 
him. 

RANGERS' RELICS FOUND. 
When the early hunters came to the valley of the Cohos 
(meadow of pines), on a pine-tree standing up in a wild 
gorge, on what the Indians called Singrawack, was a bark- 
less spot, whereon was a curious mingling of storm-worn 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 37 

hieroglyphical characters. Near this was found the 
remains of a military dress — rusty buttons, &c., with a 
gun-barrel, lock, rotten stock, and a small copper kettle. 
In another place, while digging away the rubbish at the 
foot of a steep bank near which a block-house had lately 
been erected, in place of an expected spring of water 
were found six old gun-barrels, and what appeared to be 
a pile of knapsacks, containing a quantity of frogs and 
fish-bones. A certain old hunter, by the delusive influence 
of three similar dreams, fancied that he should become 
wealthy by untiring search for precious treasures among 
the White Hills. One day, while engaged in his exploring 
operations, a terrible mountain storm obliged him to seek 
shelter under an overhanging cliff. AVhile there he noticed, 
back in a dark corner, among the shadows of this rude 
cave, several flat stones piled up in a manner too curious 
to be natural. On examination under this pile, he found 
a rusty old hatchet, and a roll of birch-bark, neatly 
encased in wild-bees' wax. A disagreeable stench rose 
from the damp mould within the crevice wherein these 
relics were secured, and a silent fear of he knew not what 
caused the old hunter to instinctively withdraw from 
further examination. Within the birch-bark roll he found 
a parchment, formed of an Indian-tanned fawn-skin, on 
which were written many characters, which to the unlet- 
tered hunter were mysterious. He carried his unaccount- 



38 HISTORICAL RELICH OP 

able prize to the nearest settlement, and, being void of all 
antiquarian spirit, sold it to a distiller of spirits for two 
quarts of potato-whiskey. Here the mysterious manu- 
script disappeared, and by many it is believed to have 
been burned with the whiskey-shop in 1804. Be this as it 
may, the old hunter now fancied he could lead a party of 
treasure-seekers to the hiding-place of the silver image, 
and other treasure supposed to be there somewhere, in 
sacred keeping of the mountain genii. Ere we proceed to 
notice the party in search for the secrets of the mountain 
cave, we will note other wild traditions, that stalk before 
us like gigantic shadows, speaking from the past, saying, 
" Whether false or true, time-hoiwred fictions , in this 
hnaginative acje, are as much of a legal tender for the liter- 
ar7j ivoi-ld, as dry modern facts y 

STRANGE SIGHTS SEEN. 
Years previous to a settlement near these mountains, a 
hunter brought from thence what was considered by many 
a vague report of a strange vision seen. He was alone, 
and what part imagination had to do with what he fancied 
to be true, judge ye who please. lie was camping far up 
among the White Hills, on a stream called by the natives 
" Singrawack," one night, when his camp-fire burned low, 
and a dreamy restlessness mocked his desire to enjoy 
profound sleep ; and to his sight, on a background of deep 



TItE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 39 

blue sky, arose the craggy mountain, enlivened by the 
magic splendor of a moonlit night. The mountain's 
northern side was hid in its own dark shadow ; but silvery 
moonbeams were glittering upon its pointed rock, and 
around its top hung a still, thick mist. Above the mur- 
muring of mountain waterfalls rose a strange noise 
indistinctly ; but, being of a stout heart, he heeded it 
not, save as the ominous hoot of some solitary owl, or the 
lone howl of a hungry wolf, giving zest to his hopeless 
employment by keeping up his spirits with a rude sere- 
nade for the moonlit night. The hunter's nerves were 
like steel, but a fanciful influence changed the mist to a 
great stone church, and within this was an altar, where 
from a sparkling censer rose a curling wreath of incense- 
smoke, and around it lights dispersed a mellow glow, by 
which in groups before that altar appeared a tribe of 
savages kneeling in profound silence. A change came in 
the wind ; a song loud and long rose as a voice-offering to 
the Great Spirit ; then glittering church-spire, church and 
altar, vanished, and down the steep rock trailed a long 
line of strange-looking men, in solemn silence. Before all, 
as borne by some airy sprite, sported a glittering image 
of silver, which in the deep shadows changed to fairy shape, 
and, with sparkling wings, disappeared in the rent rocks. 
A loud laugh of brutal triumph, combined with the strange 
vision, startled to consciousness the hunter ; and, musing on 
5 



40 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

what had passed, he rekindled his fire by the light of 
morning over the eastern mountains. 

Another report declares that, not far from the period 
of which we speak, another hunter was startled from pro- 
found sleep in the dead of night by most hideous screech- 
ings, as of a man in the last agonies of extreme torture. 
At intervals, through the remainder of the night, above the 
roar of the mountain stream rose strange noises, either 
through fancy or reality. 

Connected with the same odd train, so much in keeping 
with the spirit of wild legendary adventure, comes another 
account, that, in a superstitious, witchcraft age, might cause 
some credulous ones to become confident. There once 
came a great storm, out of which came a voice, saying : 
" That pagan treasure from St. Francis may not remain 
a secret to adventure till the Great Spirit's thunder dAes 
on the crags of Agiochooky When these words were pro- 
nounced, the apparition of a skeleton Indian, with ribs 
like loud-sounding harp-strings, was followed by an armed 
train of pale-faces ; an Indian village was burning, and 
from the blood and ruins of the fire-lit night a soldier 
appeared, bearing a silver image, money and wampum, 
away to the woods. After thus much of the wonderful, 
the precise locality of the treasure, with a power to do 
away the influence of enchantment, was reserved for the 
genius of 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 41 

THE OLD FORTUNE-TELLER. 

The history of " hnaxjc memory''' as connected with these 
bald peaks, has connected with it the old Fortune-teller, 
who, by her wonderful disclosures, had the credit of being 
leagued with the spirits of another world. By her high 
pretensions, she held the power of divination, and among 
her superstitious votaries passed for what no mortal is. 
She had a magic stone, said to have been found in a cave 
among the mountains, and possessing marvellous supposed 
virtues. This was considered as a priceless treasure by 
Indian Magi — fit offering to the Great Spirit. Such was 
the '■'- favoring star " that ruled her strange destiny, that 
from this stone she pretended to read events of the past 
and future. Her home was a rude mud hovel, in a by- 
place, where she was visited by but few, save those who 
ignorantly believed in her magical power. She sought no 
mortal sympathy, and busied her loneliness in seeking poi- 
son-herbs, which were potent helps to her power. Many 
believed she could blast the hopes of youth by one wither- 
ing look of displeasure, change the boldest heart to one 
of fear, and dry, by one wave of her hand, the blood of 
ambition in the veins of manhood ; and, in short, her vic- 
tims believed her immortal. Her art was solicited as an 
aid to the accomplishment of the object had in view by 
the fortune adventurers. 



42 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

SEARCH FOR THE IMAGE, MONEY, AND WAMPUM. 

The hunter who had found the hatchet and bark roll, 
with four other adventurers, made ready for a search for 
the silver image, &c., with the old fortune-teller as a 
figure-head for the enterprise. She agreed, if the party 
would but abide her arrangements, they should be suc- 
cessful. Accordingly, her labelled phials, apparatus for 
burning drugs, smattering of mystic words in an un- 
known tongue, with the magic stone, completed for her 
a fancied latent power, equal in confidence to try skill 
with the mighty magician of all foul incantations. She 
pretended the treasure they sought was under the influ- 
ence of strong enchantment ; and, by a fancied combination 
of astrology, alchemy and divination, she declared that 
the next night the situation of the stars would be favor- 
able for their purpose. With pick, bar, spade and axe, 
together with the old Fortune-teller's spiritual weap- 
ons, early in the morning this little party started for the 
mountains, with sufficient imaginary power to lay the 
ill-will of the most fearful hobgoblins that ever walked in 
darkness. Once in motion, with their physical and spirit- 
ual apparatus in view, a moderate stretch of fancy might 
startle the supposition that, with individual assurance, 
their object was to dare the infernal regions, and poison 
the imps with a refined portion of the old fortune-teller's 



THE WniTE MOUNTAINS. 43 

phiallcd-up venom. The old hunter who had found the 
relics had but little faith in her art ; yet his love of ad- 
venture led him to brave the ridicule of those who were but 
slightly tinctured in mind by superstition, while he at the 
same time cherished an injury against her that was deeply 
hacked in his memory. He was an old bachelor, and he 
believed the old fortune-teller had been guilty of poison- 
ing the one of his choice, to gratify the ill-will cherished 
by an unwelcome rival ; and he had been heard to say, 
" Give me but time to prove that the old hag is not in- 
vhicible hy her covenant with the devil, and I die con- 
tentedy In sullen silence he marked out their path ; and, 
as he trailed along with his rifle laid across one arm, with 
a hunting-knife, suspended by a leathern girdle, in its 
shaggy bear-skin sheath, it would have been pleasant to 
those who are gratified by studying variety of character 
to have noted his proud bearing. He had already had 
hard words with the old fortune-teller, and now there was 
meaning in the stern expression of his weather-tanned 
face. Time had deeply furrowed his brow, and habit had 
thereon contracted an eternal scowl, which, with a cold, 
fixed stare, as he plodded onward, told of a design that 
was steeling his heart for its accomplishment. 

It is sufficient to hasten forward to the concluding 
scene, by noting that the old fortune-teller and the hunter 

had a falling out, as they halted to eat their " cold lunch ; " 

5* 



44 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

and, drawing his knife, he swore he would know on the 
spot whether she was in league or not with invisible 
powers. Bloodshed was doubtless alone prevented by timely 
interference of others of the party, and she declared she 
could find that treasure without the hunter's aid, and 
would not proceed further under his guidance. From this 
point she became guide ; and, having assumed this right, 
such scrambling over bush and log, through swamp and 
brook, was seldom undergone before, perchance, by one 
who on winged thought could compass space by the art of 
magic. Much of the activity of better days had been 
kept alive by the old fortune-teller, by her active habits, 
through woods and fields in search for roots and herbs ; 
and either on the uprising vapor from broken phials, or 
by the transforming power of magic, they arrived, about 
sunset, near where accounts had fixed the location of the 
treasure. The precise spot was soon pointed out by the aid 
of a peculiar rod, and the " magic stone ; " and all things 
were prepared for successful search, when that night the 
position of the ^^ favoring star " might make known the 
exact moment. The night threatened to be dark and 
showery ; and, with gloomy forebodings of an uprising 
tempest, the wind roared mournfully over the lone wil- 
derness ; and high up among the rocks, in a narrow copse 
of scrub spruce, glimmered a little, wavering fire. Around 
that fire, within range of the fitful glare it sent out upon 



THK WHITE MOUNTAINS, 45 

the starless night, was the male portion of that treasure- 
seeking party (excepting the old hunter), gravely watch- 
ing every motion of the old fortune-teller, as, with a jab- 
berish jargon of discords, she tended a pot of simmering 
herbs. Lazily the hours crept on towards midnight, and 
all wondered why the old hunter did not come ; and, at 
last, with all things ready, the female genius gave the 
watchword " ready ! " and next followed the order 
" strike ! " with the caution not to cease searching till 
she gave warning that the spell was broken, and the treas- 
ure was within their grasp. Then arose the din of spade 
and bar, and the clinking pickaxe struck sparks from the 
flinty rocks, as the diggers toiled on ; and, busy as a 
bewitching spirit in a gale of wind, the old fortune-teller 
fluttered about, now here, now there, strewing the mid- 
night air with volatile odor from an uncorked phial, urg- 
ing the men to unremitting diligence, and ever and anon 
waving her wand through the black night, with a wild 
muttering of strange words accompanying. Wrought up 
to the highest pitch by avaricious excitement, nerved by 
mingled fear and hope, they had little heeded the terrific 
warfare that the elements were gathering in the distance 
to break in fury about their heads. The dolorous mur 
muring of the roused wind, that at dark swept over th\ 
groaning woods, had now increased to a heavy gale, thai 
wildly whirled about the naked rocks, above and below 



46 



HTSTOKICAL RELICS OF 



and the lightning, that had long been advancing with a 
wider curve over the front of the on-coming thunder-cloud, 
now changed the black darkness to a mighty heaving mass 
of liquid fire ; then the roar of the thunder burst among 
the craggy rocks, echoing in continued peals, shaking the 
very mountain with a noise like the voice of an upheaving 
earthquake. A terrible crash followed, like the falling 
of a hundred towering pines ; and, with the flood loosened 
from the clouds by the shock, rocks and trees rolled in 
fearful destruction down the mountain gorge. The flick- 
ering light of their uncertain pine torch disappeared in 
the wind, and between the vivid flashes that in quick suc- 
cession followed appeared a slight glimpse of total chaos. 
Consternation seized those men ; and, hesitating, the 
voice of the old fortune-teller screamed, amid the dire con- 
fusion of thunder, wind and water, " D'lfj, men, dig ! the 
power of light or darkness cannot harm you ! This raging 
is the powerful influence of strong enchantment ! Dig ! 
— dig ! — the treasure must come forth amid the convul- 
sions of the elements ! " Ere she had finished speaking, 
another flash revealed the diggers standing, like pale 
ghosts, reckless of her command. Like a wild fury, she 
leaped into the hollow among moved rocks, and, with one 
despairing shriek, fell to work, cursing her companions. 
A loud, shrill whoop rose up with the din of the storm, 
in mocking answer to her rage ; and when next a bine 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 47 

twinkling flame spread over the black rocks a ghostly 
light, a giant form arose from the mist, hurled over the 
precipice kettle and phial, and, taking the " viagic stone " 
in both hands, when next a flash lit up the scene, a fierce 
grin appeared upon a visage strangely like the old hunt- 
er's face, — a deep groan followed, — again electric fire 
lit up rock and cloud; and, wilh a wild, loud laugh, 
the phantom of the mist was seen dragging the old for- 
tune-teller by her hair towards the brink of the precipice. 
Our heroes of " image-seeking memory " waited to see no 
more. Fancying the powers of the earth and air com- 
bined against their enterprise, they made random leaps, 
through the darkness, down precipitous rocks, and anon 
lighted for a moment by a flash on the steep and danger- 
ous way, arrived in the low valley, wet, weary, bruised, 
and frightened. Next morning the sun rose clear over the 
mountains, lighting the mist that hung on the glitter- 
ing rocks ; and where the last night's battle had been, 
upon bush, rock and moss, sparkled a thousand rain- 
drops, like priceless gems in nature's- glorious crown. The 
fate of the old fortune-teller and hunter to this day 
remains a mystery ; but the track made by the scathing 
lightning that fearful night may now be seen ; and the 
traditions preserved by the simple-minded settlers near 
associate with their importance a saintly fear, when they 
call to mind the circumstances of that night. Around 



48 HISTORIC AT, RELICS OF 

that time-honored spot, Rtrango wai lings may now be heard 
when the wind is high ; and some fancy that a giant 
Indian spirit watches near, and, with goodly sembkince of 
sincerity, the same believe that, bound in some dark cav- 
ern, the old fortune-teller and hunter in spirit dwell 
together in torment. 

THE OLD BRASS PLATE. 

About the year 1802, a curious brass plate, covered 
with hieroglyphical inscriptions, of apparently ancient 
date, was found under a rock near the top of Mount 
Washington. When it was placed there, or by whom, is 
yet a profound mystery. There was through the plate a 
hole, and a piece of rusty copper, that appeared to be a 
bolt once used to secure it to the rock. According to 
tradition, this brass was of irregular shape, having been 
apparently much eaten by rust ; and, from its real appear- 
ance, the characters were said to be in an unknown 
tongue ; and, in short, of very imperfect and doubtful im- 
port. This was found by an explorer, or hunter ; and, 
being carried to the then new settlement of Jackson, below 
the mountain, for a while created a short-lived excitement, 
and at last disappeared entirely. 



THE WHITE BIOUNTAINS. 49 

DISCOVERY OF NOTCH. 

By record it appears that this remarkable defile was 
known to the aborigines, but was never used by them as 
a crossing-place for their captives, or as a war-path, till 
white explorers in part wiped from their moral vision the 
dark superstition that such approach to Agiochook would 
be deemed by the Great Spirit pardonless sacrilege. For 
many years after it was known to the first hunters 
this Notch became forgotten or neglected, till the year 
1771, when it was re-discovered by two hunters, Nash and 
Sawyer. They drove a moose up a wild mountain stream, 
surrounded by towering crags ; and, with the belief that 
it was a deep gorge, surrounded behind by mountains, 
they followed, animated by the thought of making an easy 
conquest of their intended victim. Imagine their disap- 
pointment when they found their purpose thwarted by 
tracing the foot-prints of the moose along an ancient Indian 
trail, over high precipices, to a little meadow quite on the 
other side of the mountain ! These hunters published this 
interesting discovery, and were rewarded by the tract of 
land, northerly from the Notch, known as " Nash and 
Sawyer's Location." 

DESCRIPTION OF NOTCH, ETC. 

The Notch is a narrow rent, extending more than two 
miles between towering crags. This is doubtless the 



60 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

mighty work of some overwhelming internal convulsion ; 
or, perchance, the deluge here tore mountains asunder. 
The entrance of this wonderful chasm is about twenty-two 
feet wide, forming in itself a strange natural gateway, 
with high mountain fragments piled up on either side, 
receding as you go down, till their tops reach the clouds. 
From a little beaver meadow the Saco river rises north- 
erly from this gateway, and, struggling down its narrow 
bounds, shares with the road its wild gulf; and, having 
passed through the mountain, bears its tribute onward to 
the ocean. Words cannot describe faithfully the magnifi- 
cent scenery of the Notch. This wonderful display of 
Almighty power creates invariably sensations of awe and 
mortal weakness. Passing low down between the ruins 
of mountains rent to their foundation, the tourist will 
notice a beautiful waterfall on the left, that, foaming over 
a series of rocks, falls in one place, nearly perpendicular, 
eight hundred feet. This was by Dr. D wight very appro- 
priately named Silver Cascade, and is said to be one of the 
finest waterfalls in the world. Below, a short distance, on 
the same side, falls another stream, clear and beautiful. 
This, from having worn a channel deeply into the rock, is 
called The Flume. In one place this stream leaps a 
hundred feet ; and its whole course from the clouds down 
is foamy and wild. For two thirds of the year a more 
desolate place can hardly be imagined than this Notch. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 51 

Dismal winds moan through the leafless trees, and 
through the fissures of the rocks ; and mcthinks the poor 
storm-bound traveller here in fancy has heard the genii 
of the mountain, sending through this gorge a deafening 
chorus of most frightful music. Woe, then, to poor mor- 
tality, when the snow falls fast, and the king of tempests 
rides on the wings of the hurricane through the clouds, 
armed with winter's cold, blinding sleet, and avalanches 
of ice ! 

The Ji7'st settler through the Notch was Col. Whipple, 
from Portsmouth, N. H. He came up in the year 1772, 
and he was at that time enabled to get his cattle up 
through the Notch by means of teacles and ropes, as the 
hunter's path was over several precipices, now shunned 
by the travelled way. All the way through the northern 
wilderness of Laconia (now N. H.), with the needful means 
of civilization with him, he came, scaled the crags that hang 
around that mighty rent through mountains, and by his 
enterprise earned the honor of being the first white man 
who made a permanent settlement in the township of 
Dartmouth (now Jefi'erson). 

The Jirst female through the Notch was one who in her 
old age was known as " Granny Stalbirdy She came up 
with Col. Whipple in 1776, as his servant-girl. After- 
wards she married, became a widow ; since which, learn- 
ing of the Indians the virtue of roots and herbs, she 



52 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

became a noted doctress, and was famous in all this new 
country for her skill. After enjoying life for nearly a 
full century, she died, leaving her name in the memory of 
many pleasantly cherished ; and the history of a vast 
rock, that long ago tumbled down from the mountains, 
bears the name " Granny Stalbird's Rock." One time, 
while passing on her professional duties through the 
Notch, she was overtaken by a terrible storm ; and dark- 
ness coming on, with torrents of water from the clouds, 
that swelled to a fearful height the wild mountain streams, 
she sought shelter under this rock, and laid there through 
a sleepless night, with the doleful music of water, wind 
and wolves, around her. The habits of this useful old 
doctress were quite masculine. On foot, or astride of an 
old horse, she might commonly be seen in the road, hast- 
ening from house to house on her errands of mercy. Bad 
travelling and severe storms, were never insurmountable 
barriers in her path of usefulness. To do good to the 
sick was her life ; and her God sustained her for long 
years as a worthy ministering spirit to the afflicted. She 
needs no monument to her memory more lasting than that 
which lives in her deeds. 

STORY OF NANCY'S ROCK AND BROOK. 
On a branch of the Saco, below where the Willey 
House now stands, a girl perished in 1778. Her sad 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 53 

story is worthy of notice here. Nancy came up through 
the Notch with Colonel Whipple, soon after his settle- 
ment, and a hired servant of his gained her affections. 
She learned to place in his fair promises all the confidence 
of her guiltless heart, and, long cherished as a true friend, 
the wretch, having moulded her affections completely to 
his purpose, agreed to go to Portsmouth and be married. 
They first went to Lancaster, to make necessary prepara- 
tions for their intended journey through the wilderness. 
She trusted her lover with the money the colonel had paid 
her for two years' service, and, false to the common feel- 
ings of humanity, he left her, and hastened away on his 
long journey. There was then no road, and a dense wil- 
derness, thirty miles to the first settlement below the 
Notch, with only a hunter's path, marked by spotted trees, 
was to be passed ; but Nancy, when aware of her lover's 
treachery, resolved to follow, at the hazard of life. There 
was a light snow upon the ground and trees, so that, when 
she got back to the Colonel's, she was thoroughly drenched, 
and the cold winds of autumn had chilled her. In vain 
her friends there tried to dissuade her from following ; 
but persuaded by her determination that her false one 
would camp at the Notch that night, she thought by 
travelling without rest she might overtake him there. All 
night she wandered, and when morning came she reached 
the spot where the ashes of his camp-fire were yet warm ; 



54 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

but he was gone, and in vain, with benumbed hands, she 
tried to rekindle the fire. Wet, cold and hungry, and 
excessively wearied by over-exertion, she still clung to the 
false shadow of a hope that lived in her heart, and made 
one more desperate effort to — she knew not what. 

That branch of the Saco, in that lonely mountain gorge, 
sings a song that never ends ; and by it is a rock that 
stands a's a wasteless monument, silently defying time and 
storms. These bear the respective names " Nancy's Rock 
and Brook," and here her body was found, with her head 
resting upon her hand and cane. Fearing for her safety, 
as she did not return, her friends followed her the next 
morning, and found her frozen stiff. The lover of this 
unhappy girl heard of her horrible death, and, smitten by 
conscience, became insane, and after a few weeks died a 
raving madman. This is a concise sketch, as told me by 
some who, knowing the above facts, yet live to bear record 
that my description is true. 

Her tragic fate, though horrid to relate. 
Shows how true love controls a woman's fate. 

The first goods brought wp the Notch was a barrel of 
rum, which was given to Captain Rosbrook, by a mer- 
chant of Portland, on condition he would get it up through 
the Notch. The captain made record, that after crossing 
the Saco river twenty-two times, with a horse and two 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 55 

poles, and several men, he succeeded in getting as much 
of the rum up as 7vas not used in the enterprise. 

First 'produce carried down through the Notch was a 
barrel of tobacco, raised in Lancaster, by one Titus 0. 
Brown. Thus, we sec, rum and tobacco ranked here, 
where, among many good people of olden times, they were 
considered absolutely necessary, as first. But, thanks 
be to reformers, may the day not be far distant when an 
intemperate use of either shall be looked upon by the 
public, under the influence of moral persuasion, as an 
evil to be ranked in the same light with the follies of 
witchcraft ! 

FIRST HOUSE IN THE NOTCH. 

The Willey House is the oldest building erected in the 
Notch. This was built in the year 1793, by a Mr. Davis, 
to accommodate the unfortunate storm-bound traveller, 
who, from curiosity, or on business, might dare the dangers 
of this wild pass. Then a little grassy meadow stretched 
along the bank of the Saco ; tall rock-maples, and a tower- 
ing mountain barrier, rose in the background from this 
little home of the pilgrim. How like a cool shadow of a 
great rock was this retreat among the frowning crags ! 
But the thundering avalanche came, and, since August 28th, 
1826, the spirit of desolation has brooded over that fated 
spot. How lonely there is the dirge of the high wind, as 
6* 



5G HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

it sweeps down that solitary chasm ; and the wail of the 
sunset breeze, with the loud requiem of the on-rushing 
hurricane, is most mournful, for human bones are there 
palled in an avalanche's ruins ! 

AVALANCHES OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

Betimes around these " gray old piles of eternity " rise 
heavy black clouds from the four points of heaven, that 
shroud all " tip-top " in the darkness of night, and cast 
gloomy shadows on the deep, wild gorges below. Then the 
invisible genius of storms loosens the howling winds from 
their secret caverns, down comes the outpouring tornado, 
the mountain shakes beneath the tramp of the on-rushing 
tempest, and the rough rocks smoke by the violence of 
the merciless elements. It is fearful, then, to be high 
among the rocks, with the roaring hurricane's breath, 
wildly rushing clouds, heavy thunder-peals, and vivid 
lightning-fiash, mingled in one overwhelming discord 
around. Then mighty piles of rocks, and acres of forest 
growth, roll dowa the mountain side, new streams burst 
out among the rocks, and thus have these famous peaks 
become deeply marked by the desolating track of the 
thundering avalanche. Wide over the valleys below scat- 
ter the ruins, like the eruption of a volcano ; and loud 
reverberations among the echoing cliffs, move away like 
distant thunder. These land-slides generally start near 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 57 

the upupr region of scrub vegetation, and, deepening and 
widening as they rush down, carry with them the forest 
growth, huge rocks, and all the loose earth, even to the 
bare granite ; and thus, in some remarkable storms, thou- 
sands of acres are made desolate, with a thundering noise, 
like that heard when an earthquake lifts for deliverance. 
Tourists, on all sides of these mountains, must have 
noticed long scars, like wide roads, reaching down to the 
lowlands, that curiously contrast, by their yellow or red- 
dish hues, with the dark, evergreen growth through which 
they sweep. These are the paths of avalanches. 

ORIGIN OF INDIAN FIKE-WORSHIP. 

Doubtless the profound veneration which has ever for 
these old towering piles prevailed among the Indians 
originated, in part, from these terrible visitations that 
have here at times shook the foundation of this wild 
region. The gleam of the lightning flying from cliff to 
cliff, the voice of the thunder speaking from the black 
cloud, and the dire confusion of the desolating avalanche, 
all told of the Great Spirit, to whose almighty power 
they offered sacrifice with reverence. From the tempest- 
clouds of Agiochook, for the red hunter, had been sent 
down fire that shivered the tall pine of the cold, shadowy 
valley of Amonoosuc ; and by it he learned to cook his 
moose-meat, and warm his wearied limbs. From this 



58 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

gift of fire from the clouds grew up with the tribes of the 
northern wilderness, according to the imaginative tradi- 
tionary lore of old, the celebrated fire-dance, fire-worship, 
and sacrifice of game to fire. 

DESTRUCTION OF THE WILLEY FAMILY. 

Some few instances are on record, and others live in 
tradition, of destruction of human life, as, also, of wonder- 
ful escapes from death, among these mountains, by the 
resistless avalanche. The following account, by its start- 
ling details, first attracts our notice. Some time in June 
— before the great " slide " in August, 1826 — there came 
a great storm, and the old veteran, Abel Crawford, coming 
down the Notch, noticed the trees slipping down, standing 
upright, and, as he was passing Mr. Willey's, he called 
and informed him of the wonderful fiict. Immediately, 
in a less exposed place, Mr. Willey prepared a shelter to 
which to flee in case of immediate danger ; and in the 
night of August 28th, that year, he was, with his family, 
awakened by the thundering crash of the coming avalanche. 
Attempting to escape, that family, nine in number, rushed 
from the house, and were overtaken and buried alive 
under a vast pile of rocks, earth, trees, and water. By 
a remarkable circumstance, the house remained uninjured, 
as the slide divided about four rods back of the house 
(against a high flat rock), and came down on either side, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 59 

with overwhelming power. The little meadow there, on 
the Saco, was entirely destroyed, and to this day wears 
a desert aspect. A commodious two-story hotel has been 
erected near this spot, and thousands each season come to 
stand upon the rock that saved that famous old Willey 
House, by turning the force of the thundering avalanche 
aside. There is, near by, a rude mound of small stones, 
piled up by strangers, who have visited this spot to see 
where three children yet sleep in death, beneath the ruins 
of that fearful night. 

NAMES OF THAT FAMILY. 

Samuel Willey, jr., aged 38. 
Polly L. Willey, '« 35. 
Eliza Ann, " 13. 

Jeremiah L., " 11. 

Martha G., " 9. 

Two first, parents ; five next, children ; two last, hired 
men. The three first and three last have been found, and 
the other three are where the avalanche overtook them 
that fatal hour. 

WONDERFUL ESCAPES. 

In Moore's Hist. Col. of N. H., vol. iii., p. 226, is found 
the description of a remarkable escape from death, one 
dark and rainy night, on the side of Mt. Washington. 



Elbridge G., 


aged 7. 


Sally, 


" 5. 


David Nickerson, 


« 21. 


David Allen, 


" 37. 



60 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

This we will style The Destruction of Ethan's Cahin. The 
description is as follows : " We were on the north-westerly 
side of Mt. Washington, August 27th, 1826, about two 
miles from the top. The storm continued to increase; 
the very summit seemed to shake in the tempest, and an 
involuntary dread touched our hearts, as the noise of the 
hurricane grew louder, and sudden gusts swept over us, 
and dashed down streams of water upon our frail cabin. 
Our fire was put out, and, fearing lest delay might be 
death, we hastened down the mountain, and crossed the 
Amonoosuc as best we could, which stream was now roar- 
ing along like a tremendous cataract. The next morning 
sun shone out, and we beheld where one slide had the 
appearance of passing directly over where we had the 
night before camped." Ethan in his journal says : " God 
only knows what must have been their fortune, had they 
remained; and truly thankful they seemed to be for 
their escape. It seemed really a providential thing their 
being saved. My cabin, where they were stopping, was 
destroyed, and the old iron chest and blankets were all 
swept away and buried, except a few tattered pieces of 
blankets that caught on bushes down the river. All else 
was lost." 

ORIGIN OP PEABODY EIVER. 

A description of another wonderful escape is found in 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 61 

Rev. H. White's History of New England, page 327. 
" The father of Oliver Peabody, who resided at Andover, 
Mass., in one of his excursions into New Hampshire met 
with an adventure which has connected his name with the 
geography of the country, and which, for that reason, as 
well as its singularity, may, perhaps, with propriety, be 
mentioned here. He was passing a night in the cabin of 
an Indian, situated on the height between the Saco and 
the Androscoggin rivers. The inmates of this rude dwell- 
ing were awakened in the course of the night by a loud 
noise, and had scarcely time to escape, before the hut was 
swept away by a torrent of water rushing impetuously 
down the hill. On reconnoitring the spot, they found 
that this torrent had burst out suddenly from a place 
where there was no spring before." This is supposed to 
date back to the origin of the branch of Peabody river, 
that runs in front of the Glen House, and hence came its 
name. 

DARBY FIELD'S SECOND VISIT. 

This extravagant description, by one who occupies a 
prominent place as an early explorer, is deemed worthy 
of record as a curiosity. It might as properly have been 
noticed in connection with his first visit. Had it then 
been in my possession, there it would have appeared ; but 
my manuscript, up to this page, now being in proof, here 



62 HISTORICAL KELICS OF 

let it be recorded as a worthy relic, rescued by accident 
from the antiquarian collection of the Massachusetts His- 
torical Society. In a worm-eaten old edition of Win- 
throp's History, vol. ii., page 107, is found the following: 

" In his second visit in 1642, Darby Field went up the 
Saco in birch canoes with his party. He found 10 falls 
on that river to stop boats, and there were thousands of 
acres of rich meadow to Pegwagget,* an Indian town. He 
then went up a hill 30 miles in woody land, and 8 miles 
up shattered rocks, without tree or grass. The top is 3 
or 4 miles over, all shattered stone, and on one end is 
another rock about a mile high, with an acre on top. At 
the top of the plain rises 4 great rivers, at the first issue 
having as much water as will drive a mill. Connecticut 
from 2 heads at the N. W. and S. W., Saco on the S. E., 
Amascoggin at the N. E., and Kennebec at the N. by E." 

DEATH OF THE ENGLISH BARONET. 
From all the hardships of adventurous life ^among 
these mountains, but one instance of rashness proving 
fatal has been known of late years. Many fancy that 
there is much danger attendant upon a visit to this 
famous place ; but the fact that no serious injury has been 
suffered by the thousands who here climb to the clouds, 

* Conway. 



THE ^VH1TE MOUNTAINS. 63 

with the exception of this solitary case, ought to make 
assurance double, that, with necessary prudence, danger 
here is trifling. Much credit is due to the faithful man- 
agement of the experienced guides who are employed, for 
the benefit of company, at the hotels around the moun- 
tains. 

In the autumn of 1851, late in October, a young Eng- 
lish baronet visited the White Mountain Notch, and, 
notwithstanding snow was on all the bald peaks above, he 
determined to visit the top of Mount Washington. He 
could not be dissuaded from the rash attempt ; go he would. 
A guide went with him to the top of Mount Clinton from 
Gibbs', and, finding the snow deep, aud the wind rough and 
wintry, the experience of the guide warned his better 
judgment that it was highly imprudent to go further ; and, 
having said all he could to discourage going forward, he 
turned back, supposing the Englishman would soon follow. 
Night came on, but no Englishman, and early the next 
morning a party followed. They tracked him to the top 
rock of Mount Washington, to near where the north end 
of the Tiptop House now stands. Fabyan's house was 
then standing, and being westerly in full view down the 
Amonoosuc valley, he started down apparently with the 
calculation to reach that point. Down where D. Field, 
in his first visit, said, " There loas suck a precipice as we 
could scarcely discern the hottom,^^ they followed his trail. 
7 



64 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

They found where he fell many times, and at last marks 
of blood were on the snow, and from thence he appeared 
to drag himself along. In the valley of the Amonoosuo 
they found his body, mangled, and nearly naked. He was 
lying on his face in a little stream. In the remains of 
his clothing were found thirty dollars in gold, and a large 
check, payable in New York city. 

DEATH-LEAP OF THE MOOSE AND DOG. 
On an eastern spur of the White Mountains is a beetling 
crag, down which a hunter once drove a moose, and his 
dog, pressing eagerly on the track of his intended victim, 
followed, and both were mingled in one mangled mass of 
bones, flesh, and blood. There is a tradition of a man 
who during the early survey of the township of Sherborne, 
was hired to climb that ledge over which the moose and 
dog leaped, and his reward was to be the best lot of 
land in the township. He succeeded in accomplishing the 
daring feat, and the object of his hire has since, by the 
nerve that caused him to not look back or falter in the 
attempt, become a pleasant home for a second generation 
of his enterprising name. 

INDIAN EXILE, PEALSUCEP. 

A sun's journey up the Androscoggin from its mouth, 
in a wild glen, by the shore of a little lake that was curi- 



THE WHITE MODNTAINS. 65 

ously surrounded by a fanciful setting of evergreen ver- 
dure, stood the wigwam of a young hunter. His name 
was Pealsucep, and a pretty young squaw was the light 
of his rude home. They were happy together, for the 
Great Spirit had smiled upon their love, and given them 
a son, a bright-eyed little boy, who filled the hearts of 
his parents with unclouded hope. When he walked upon 
the lake shore, and picked curious stones, and danced 
merrily among the wild-flowers, it showed the fulness of 
his youthful joy to their hearts, and they were happy. 
One day, when the hunter was away to the chase on the 
hills, a pale-faced stranger came to his cabin, treated his 
squaw rudely, and in pretended sport gave his boy a toss 
out into the lake to see him swim ashore. The little 
fellow struggled manfully, and regained the shore amid 
the shouts of the pale-faced sailor, who then offered the 
squaw drink from a bottle, and departed. Pealsucep 
returned, and the little lad soon after grew sick, and, linger- 
ing three days, died. The squaw told the story of the 
pale-face, to which the hunter listened silently, with down- 
cast look. He went often to the grave of his little boy, 
and made fit offering there, that his journey might be 
swift and bright beyond the sunset. But from this time 
there was a black cloud upon the path of Pealsucep ; the 
cruel fire of jealousy was kindled with undying rage in 
the deep feelings of his spirit, and in vain did his guiltless 



66 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

squaw declare her innocence. Like a tender flower that 
nestles for protection against wind and storms in the shade 
of some defiant mountain pine, she felt her support was 
gone ; a blight came over her hopes, and she died. 
Silently and tearfully Pealsucep laid her by the side of 
her little boy. Two moons passed away ; his tribe became 
indignant, called a council, and the gray-headed old chief 
sent for Pealsucep, and said : *' Yoii hare sent your squaw 
away before the Great Spirit called her. You are a swift 
hunter and brave ; but never make a foot-mark among the 
hunters of your tribe after to-morrows sim, uidess you 
take the rrijyple that lives by the river for your squaw.''' 
Pealsucep looked upon the cripple, sliook his head, and 
ere sunset had gathered a pile of pine-knots near his cabin 
door. When darkness that night came down upon the lone 
wilderness, he kindled his knot-pile, and b}^ its light laid 
upon it the bodies of his squaw and son, and, leaving them 
there to consume, bounded away to the gloom of the thick 
woods, filling the night with fearful shrieks of anguish. 
With the morning light he returned. His hunting-dress 
was in tatters, his hair strangely tangled, and, silently 
gathering the ashes of those he once loved into a rude 
bark-box, up towards the mountain he turned his lone 
steps, and made for himself a new path in the wilderness. 
Tradition says that upon a foaming stream, in the shadow 
of the "Great Spirit's" home, the ashes of that squa^? 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 67 

and her boy now repose, with a rude stone pile to mark 
the spot. What of Pealsuccp ? He made a vow ; and, if 
tradition be true, the Great Spirit heard it. He dared 
His displeasure ; and, high up among the clouds, breathed 
a promise to the Invisible Influence of storms ; and most 
faithfully a whisper came to his spirit. Deathless hate 
and untiring revenge against his tribe and the pale-faces 
were the burden of his wishes. For years he appeared to 
be the incarnate embodiment of a destroying genius, that 
walked in the wind, and silently speeded the arrow of 
death on its fatal mission, till his tribe dwindled away, 
and the pale-faces abandoned th^ settlement at the 
mouth of the Kennebec. By tradition he was instrumental 
in destroying the war-party at Lewiston Falls, by a false 
light, set, as they supposed, by their runners who went 
forward to prepare camping-ground. This light, instead 
of being set at the head of the falls, was se£ down below ; 
and, coming down the river after dark, taking the light as 
guide for turning their canoes ashore, all went down, and 
perished. At a certain block-house he shot several senti- 
nels, and at last was himself wounded, by the stratagem 
of a sentry at that post. He this time crawled away to 
the river bank, floated across, and, filling his wound with 
moss, lived for a long time on beech-leaves and roots, and 
recovered. He took several prisoners, for which he re- 
ceived of the Jesuits a bounty ; and among others there was 



68 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

a little girl b}^ the name of Mary Crager, whose fate adds 
a curious page to this list of mountain relics. This Indian, 
according to tradition, once found, while climbing a spur 
of these mountains, a quantity o^ fine silver ore. He was 
scrambling up a steep ledge, where, to facilitate his 
ascent, he took hold of a bush that came up by the roots, 
revealing to his wondering gaze hanging pieces of ore that 
appeared to have oozed out in its richness from the 
crevices of the cliff. This Indian in 1779 was very old 
and feeble ; his great age made him quite harmless, and 
he lived in a shadow of the Great Spirit's home ; and 
there his bones noi^ moulder, by a rushing mountain 
stream, that sings an endless song for iJiree — the little 
Indian boy, his mother, and old Pealsucep, the exile. 

white-:moi:ntaix hermit. 

Thomas Crager was the first white man who ever dwelt 
near the White Mountains. He lived at a time so unfor- 
tunate that law supposed if a person could not swim, when 
arrested, they could send their spirit into the body of some 
neighbor's cat, and walk the night doing mischief Ac- 
cordingly his wife was executed as a witch ; and this sad 
event bowed his spirit low in the shadow of gi'icf Bnt 
one little ray of hope beamed through the night of Iris 
soul ; this was his love for his motherless little gir). One 
evening, when a number of little children were at play 



THE WUITE MOUNTAINS. 69 

near a wood, suddenly the cry arose that an Indian had 
carried off little Ma?'y Crager. Nerved by the spirit of 
desperation, the last tie binding this unfortunate man to 
civilized life was now severed; and, equipped for the chase, 
he shaped his course for the unpathed wilderness. Near 
the White Mountains he came to an Indian village, but, 
failing to find the object of his search there, he took 
advantage of the native superstition existing among the 
red hunters of that wild region, and went up to dwell 
among the rocks, where, undisturbed, he for a long time 
lived, to savage fancy, as an adopted son of the Great 
Spirit. Unannoyed by savage neighbors, fish were plenty, 
abundance of game lived on every wooded steep and shady 
glen, and in his habitation of solitude he was lord of the 
realm he trod. The crystal waters and pure air of the 
mountains gave him health and strength ; and as years 
rolled away, void of the exciting passions of busy life, he 
grew old slowly, for a glimmering hope yet bound him to 
earth. In his intercourse with his red neighbors, he was 
respected on account of his home being, like an eagle's, 
perched among the rolling clouds ; and, having learned 
that a little pale flower had long been in the possession of a 
gray-headed old Indian, who made his dwelling-place 
alone, distant from his tribe, he sought for him, and found 
what strengthened his fears. He found, in the possession 
of this Indian, a piece of what he knew to be the dress of 



70 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

his little girl, the evening she was stolen away. The 
Indian was now very old and feeble, and, raising his 
trembling hand when Crager came into his presence, the 
flash of vengeance rekindled his dim eyes, and it was a long 
time ere he could so calm his fears as to gain from him 
in broken English the sought-for information. In the end 
he learned from the Indian, by promising to instruct him 
in the use of a gun, that the child he sought was sold to 
the Jesuits, on a big river towards the sunrise, and that now 
she was a tall woman, if living. It is sufficient for the 
purpose of these pages * that, after a series of curious 
adventures, Crager succeeded in finding his daughter, 
among the eastern Indians of the Abnakis tribe, married, 
and living like a native squaw. He found also in the 
possession of old Pealsucep specimens of silver, and 
learned from him the tradition referred to in our notice of 
the exile ; and, by making a solemn promise to bury his 
remains, when dead, by the side of his squaw and boy, he 
received a rude description of the locality of that mine. 
But to this day the world, perchance, is no richer, save in 
fancy, for the tin, and lead, and silver, with which these 
mountains abound. Perchance more silver may some day 
be made by working the tin veins of Jackson, and the lead 

* In a forthcoming edition of The Indian Traditions and 
Legends of Agiochook:, this tradition and its details will appear, 
perchance. — Attthor. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 71 

mines of Shelborne, than can be realized by magic appli- 
cation for hidden treasures and silver mines. 

WHITE-MOUNTAIN HOTELS. 

The world-wide reputation of these mountains, gained 
since they were first called " Chrystal HiUs," in 1631, 
yearly calls to their airy heights and shaded sylvan retreats 
thousands from all parts of the world, that in this moun- 
tain land they may for a season shake off the perplexities 
of business life, and freely receive the invigorating influ- 
ence of health and comfort. For the accommodation of 
these numerous visitors, mammoth hotels have been 
erected in the most attractive localities ; and, being man- 
aged on the most approved city style, the " Alpine 
House,^' at Gorham Station, " Thomson's Glen House^^' 
"Gibbs' Notch House,'' and ''The White-Mountain 
House,'' give satisfactory evidence of their deserved popu- 
larity by the liberal patronage seasonably bestowed upon 
each. Within a pleasant drive of the base of these 
mountains are delightful villages (Conway, on the Saco ; 
Gorham, on the Androscoggin ; Lancaster, on the Connect- 
icut, and Whitefield, near the Amonoosuc), where the 
free circulation of fresh mountain air, and pure water, 
foaming cold from icy indentations among snowy cliffs, 
afford to all who come and tarry a pleasant and healthful 



72 HT?TO?JCAL nZLlCS OF 

conirast to the sickly. peDt-iip city street. Trhere floats a 
hot atmosi'liere of pestilence and deatb. 

DWKT.T.TN'G-PLACE Ds THE CLOUDS. 

The possibility of erecting a permanent snmiaer home 
for man on the top crag of Monnt Washington, was 
for a long time looked npon with serions doubt, and con- 
sidered only a fit subject of sp>ecnlation for the risionary. 

The TTicZf stoTie cabin, in onr reference to " The White- 
Mountain Giant,'' being the first shelter wherein mortals 
cGtild on this bleak pile of rocks find an artificial resting- 
plac-e, was erer by the winter storms rendered a most 
desolate object, though sheltered behind a bold crag. Tne 
diingle roof split down in the woods on the monntain 
side and packed np on the backs of men, was scattered to 
the four winds. The levers of the frost, and the wild 
Imrricane, tumbled down ihe thick stone walls ; and eyery 
^ring a roofless heap of ruins, with a rusty old stoTe, and 
the iron chest, was left to tell a sad story of the inrisible 
power that orer these towering summits stretches the arm 
of destructioB, 

XAZEO-S TEMPLE ^XSIOX. 

A peculiar genius, in 1B50, obtained a supposed free- 
soil title to the top of 3Iount Washington, with all the 
privileges and appurtenances to the same belonging ; and, 



IHi: WEILL HOOTAlN-i, 73 

erecting gateways upon all the bridle-patiu leading ap to 
*' the peaks in the clouds,'^ exacted one dollar as toll-fee 
from each and every person who asoendeiL He alio 
published a flaming proclamation in the paf^ers of the day, 
of which this is a tme copy : 

PROCLAMATION. 

FOURTH OF JULY O >' 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 

There will be a solemn congregation upon TRDTLTY 
HEIGHT, or Summit of Motmt "Washington, on the 
Fourth Day of July, a. n. ISol, and 1st year of tke 
Theocracy, or Jewish Giristianity, to dedicate to tiio 
coming of the Ancient of Days, in the glory of His King- 
dom, and to the marriage of the Lamb ; and the literal 
organization in this generation of the Christian or purple 
and royal Democracy (_let no man profane that name !), 
or the thousand thousands, and ten thousand times ten 
thousand of the people of the Saints of the most high 
God of erery nation and Denomination into the great- 
ness of God's kingdom and dominion under the whole 
heavens ; and there will be a contribution for this purpose 
from all who are willing, in the beauty of holiness, from 
the dawn of that day. 

JOHN COFFIN NAZKO. 

Isratl of JeruMlejn. 



74 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

The appointed fourth of July was as dark and rainy as 
any, perhaps, that ever shrouded Mount Washington in 
wildly-flying clouds; and Nazro, meeting with strong 
opposition in toll-gathering, relinquished his temple-build- 
ing designs, and, throwing away his gate-keys to the en- 
trance of this mighty altar, retired to United States ser- 
vice, where, perchance, he may be now plotting the way 
to fortune among the clouds. 

SUMMIT HOUSE ON MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The matter-of-fact enterprise- of two thorough-going 
Yankees, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook, came to the 
task in 1852, and the above-named house was erected 
within a few feet of the highest rock of Mount Washing- 
ton. (See right-hand house in cut on first page.) This 
structure is of heavy stones, blasted with powder from 
the mighty paramid on which it stands ; and it is twenty- 
four feet by sixty-four feet, firmly secured to its everlast- 
ing foundation by cement, heavy iron bolts ; and over the 
roof are tightened four strong cables. In opposition to 
the prophecies of the unbelieving, this house stood the 
storms of winter; and the next summer another house 
was stone-built, and called the 

TIP-TOP HOUSE. 
This house was erected by Samuel F. Spaulding & Co., 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 75 

and cement and iron rods hold this monument of daring 
enterprise, in proud defiance of wind and storm, to the 
most bleak top crag of Mount Washington. This house 
is twenty-eight feet wide by eighty-four feet long ; and 
has a deck-roof, whereon the visitor may stand and look 
down six thousand two hundred and eighty-live feet, on to 
the vast map spread on every side at his feet. (On the 
first page of this book this house is seen in the engraving, 
with a telescope, and three visitors on its roof, under a 
flag of our country.) 

These two houses arc unitedly managed by a company 
of hardy mountaineers, who spare no pains to make this 
famous resort a true home to the admiring stranger, and 
a pleasant resting-place to the travel-worn pilgrim. All 
who seek health and pleasure in this pure mountain cli- 
mate, or a gratification of curiosity for the wonderful in 
sublime scenery, will find here ample accommodations for 
their comfort, both day and night. The changing scenes 
and reflections connected with every sunset and sunrise, 
enjoyed from this elevation, are remarkable beyond descrip- 
tion. Here too sunlight plays upon the bald rocks, while 
black storms, armed with wind and thunder, move like the 
shadows of destroying giants in the habitated regions 
below. Here the moon, with its starry host, sends down 
its solemn light upon the gray crags, kindling into a fiery 
glow a hundred lakes, ponds, rivers, and dashing moun- 
8 



76 HISTORICAL RELICS OF 

tain streams, and strangely enlivening every shady glen 
with flitting lights and shades for the sombre world. Never 
did Seer from the land of the pyramids, or Chaldean star- 
gazer, study the heavens from an observatory like this. 
Ye who would enjoy the sports of stream and forest, come 
to these mountains ! Ye who delight to behold the works 
of nature in their most sublime flights, come to these 
mountains ' Ye who have a love for novelty and a desire 
for true pleasure, come and behold God's wisdom dis- 
played in the bold outlines of this gigantic monument of 
his almighty power ! Here the undying features of grand- 
eur were moulded in imperishable materials by his hand ! 

MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE-ROAD. 

A company, known as the Mount Washington Carriage- 
Road Company, was chartered in June, 1853, by the Legis- 
lature of New Hampshire, with a capital-stock of fifty 
thousand dollars. The first day of September, 1853, this 
company was organized at the Aljnne House, Gorliam, 
and the following board of directors was chosen : D. 0. 
Macomber, of New York ; John M. Woods, R. J. Ilobin- 
son, and Abner Lowell, of Portland ; J. 11. Hitchcock und 
James Dingly, of Gorham; and Barker Burbank, of 
Shelborne. D. 0. Macomber was chosen president; J. 
B. Lufkin, secretary. This road is to be sixteen feet 
wide, macadamized, and have a protection-wall, three 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 77 

feet high in dangerous places. A route has been thor- 
oughly surveyed and located, with no greater rise than 
that of one foot to eight, to the top of Mount Washington, 
from Thompson's Glen House. The distance by this road 
varies but little from eight miles, and it is now — June, 
1855 — in rapid progress towards completion, under the 
contract of Messrs. Rich & Myers. When a carriage can 
run to the top of Mount Washington, who can prophesy 
what a bright new era will dawn upon White-Mountain 
life ? The plan of this road reflects great credit upon the 
enterprise of the president, D. 0. Macomber. The part 
now located is so calculated as to bring in plain prospect 
the most varied and wild scenery of the eastern side ; and 
a survey is this season anticipated, by which the road will 
be located somewhere down the western side ; thus com- 
pleting a carriage-route that for novelty, and unparalleled 
wonder-exciting location, will not in the western world 
have an equal. 



78 THE tourist's guide to the 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 

On the Eastern side, as the traveler approaches this 
Alpine region, he will naturally inquire for the objects of 
interest, to which he wishes to direct his attention. After 
booking his name for a ride to the summit in the morning, 
from the Glen House he will pass down southerly along the 
public road, that connects the eastern and western travel 
around these mountains. Komantic scenery in its most 
primitive form everywhere greets attention. A dark old 
forest rock crumbled from frowning crags — unpathed recesses 
alone haunted by wild beasts, and deep, wild gorges 
filled with the thunder rush of wasteless mountain strooms, 
pass like dream changes before the admirer's vision, and 
about three miles from the Glen brings us to 

THE CRYSTAL CASCADE. 

This is situated on the right hand, in a dark ravine about 
a hundred rods from the road, and the whole height of the 
falls is nearly a hundred feet. This fall is broken in its 
course by projecting rocks, which scatter the water-drops 
in showers of spray, like liquid silver, upon the surround- 
ing foliage. Over other indentations of the cliff the 
water courses down green beds of moss, among stunted 
trees that struggle for existence in the scanty soil of the 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 79 

fissures and seams of splintered crags. This stream is a 
tributary sent down from the wild gorges on the southerly- 
side of Mount Washington. Should the adventurous 
tourist choose this route to the summit, he may find the 
way rugged and wild, but the change of scenery along the 
highly romantic gorge will well repay the extra tax upon 
time and nerve. In one place the 

HERMIT'S LAKE, 

set like a rich gem in its fanciful frame-work of changeless 
evergreen, appears, and stopping to enjoy the prospect, the 
idea of overwhelming wonder rushes upon our spirit in this 
solitary spot. Across this little lake, high up among the 
rolling clouds, frowns Mt. Washington, a view of which 
from this point strangely contrasts with the sparkling rush 
of noisy water, and the evergreen freshness of surrounding 
woods. To the westward rises the craggy top of Mt. 
Washington, and upon all sides, except the outlet through 
this little lake, known as The Crystal Stream, appear high 
towering cliff's, rendered a picture of desolation by the 
deep, vride track of many an avalanche. Little spots of 
verdure, blasted shrubbery, and piles of granite fragment 
appear below, with the long snow-bank and famous snow- 
arch,=^ through which runs the stream that tumbles from 



*Sfe depf^v'p'ion of snow-arcl', 15!h prgo. 



80 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE 

the ragged cliff above. Over all mark the mighty pile of 
mountains that hangs high in bold relief against the sky, 
and behold the famous 

" FALL OF A THOUSAND STUEAMS," 

divided in its descent into silvery streams that in number 
will warrant the above appellation, and you have a picture 
of the Mountain Coliseum here fiiintly referred to. and this 
also is known as Tuckerman's Eavi7ie. 

Glen Elise Falls are situated a mile below Crystal Cas- 
cade, and considered an object of quite as much interest as 
that of its rival. It is on the left side of the road, a few 
rods off, in a deep, dark ravine on Elise Eiver. The 
water falls in an unbroken sheet about eighty feet. On 
top of the crag from which this stream is projected, stands 
a finely rooted old hemlock, that in defiance to the warring 
elements stretches its shaggy top out a hundred feet above 
the top of the fall. Up this tree a boy once climbed to the 
very top, in presence of a party of visitors, and looking 
down into its fearful vortex of boiling water, nearly two 
hundred feet, seemed perfectly indifferent concerning his 
dangerous position. Descending, he was rewarded for this^ 
dare-devil feat by an admiring stranger with a York shil- 
ling. " The Lake of the Clouds " and " Star Lake," set 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 81 

like glittering diamonds in rough granite frames, on tlie 
indentation between the tops of Mt. Washington and Mt. 
Monroe, will well repay the excursionist for a visit to their 
romantic shores, distant from tip-top a mile and a half. 
" The Gulf of Mexico " and " Spaulding's Lake,'^ are at 
least worth a tri^) from the Atlantic, from all who would 
look with proud satisfaction upon nature in her sublimest 
mood. These curiosities are situated near the head of the 
most northerly branch of Peabody " Eiver, between Mt. 
Washington and Mt. Clay, and are similar in feature to 
the general outlines of Tuckerman's Havine. In place, 
however, of seeing another Fall of a Thousand Streams, 
the tourist must be content with loosing from the over- 
hanging cliff vast boulders, that smoking and thundering 
down deep in the gorge below, are splintered and lost amid 
the ruins of trees shattered on their downward trail. This 
little lake, known in its wild bed as " Spaulding's Lake'"' 
to appearance was formed by a slide from Mt. Washington ; 
and very recently another slide, from the southerly crags 
of Mt. Adams, has left its rusty, iron track, and piled its 
ruins in wild confusion high up within the waters of this 
lake. On this pile, as an apology for the name given this 
solitary sheet, may be seen engraved, "J. II. S., 1853." 

Many places of interest are yet around this gigantic 
pile of peaks, but partially explored. The field is open to 



S2 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE 

the spirit of discovery, and besides the piles of cows' 
bones found last season in the " burnt district," by Mr. 
Hall, places worthy of note and more relics interesting to 
the antiquarian will doubtless yearly be brought to light, 
till these cliffs and gorges, from being an " u?iJcnoiv?i cer- 
tainty,''^ become, like a book, thoroughly understood and 
admired. 

On the westerly side of these mountains, the chief ob- 
jects of interest are the Notch, (already referred to on 
49th page,) the Upper and Lower Falls of the Amonosoc, 
Mt. Willard, and the carriage ride to its summit. The 
wilderness valley stretched over thousands of acres, with 
the old site of the Fabyan stand, opened in the wilderness, 
for the travelers' relief, like a desert oasis. Here stand 
upon the " Giant's Grave," (that famed spot,) where, ac- 
cording to legend, sleeps one of the race which lived in 
the time of the Saurians and Mastadons! Here lift up 
3^our voice, discharge the shadow of Ethari's cannon, once 
kept there, blow a tin horn, or fire a pistol, then listen to 
the vibration of echo, sounding among a hundred peaks ! 
Ere you bid farewell to the scenery from this mound, be- 
hold the westerly declivities of the Titanic brotherhood of 
craggy White Mountain summits, stretching along the 
southern sky, with their dark fissures, silvery water- 
falls flashing in the sunlight, and deep wide tracks that 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONTA. 83 

silently tell where the destroying avalanche has been. 
Around these mountains are unnumbered streams that 
afford abundant sport for the trout-catcher. 

" The Devil's Den,'' up the side of Mt. Willard, seen 
from the notch opposite the Silver Cascade, though as yet 
but imperfectly explored, it deserves a passing notice. 
From below it appears like a dark hole in the steep cliff, 
and though various attempts have been made to explore its 
shadowy secrets, from the day it was first discovered by 
old Abel Crawford, till 1850 it remained among the un- 
visited wonders. To F. Leavitt, Esq., belongs the credit 
of succeeding, by means of a rope let down from the over- 
hanging rock above, in the accomplishment of the daring 
enterprise of first visiting that spot. Fancy a man sus- 
pended over a dark gulf more than a thousand feet deep, 
by a rope let down from a ragged crag to a dark hole in 
the mountain, around the entrance of which were scattered 
the skulls and bones of animals, and you have a glimmer- 
ing of the picture. Our hero lost all desire to enter that 
dismal cavern, and kicking the rope, was again drawn up, 
and since that time, by his description, no explorer has 
been found with sufficient nerve and curiosity to make a 
second attempt. As there has never been discovered any 
possible means by which that den can be approached by 
foothold up the rock, and as the old Evil One has such 



84 



THE TOURIST S GUIDE TO TUE 



daily business with mortal affairs, rather than believe that 
to be his abode, it appears more just to conclude that alone 
there the mountain eagle finds a solitary home. 

BEARING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUN- 
TAINS. 

Mount Washington as the centre, from "which 

Mount Adams is distant 4 miles, n. by e. 

Jefferson, " 

Madison, " 
Clay, 

' Munroe, " 

Franklin, " 

Pleasant, " 

Clinton, " 



3 ' 


' N. by w. 


5 ' 


N. N. E. 


1 ' 


N. W. 


1 ' 


S. W. 


2 ' 


' s. w. 


3 ' 


s. w. 


4 ' 


s. w. 



HEIGHT, BEARING AND DISTANCE 

OF THE LESS IMPORTANT WHITE MOUNTAINS AND OTHER MOUN- 
TAINS IN THE VICINITY, FROM MOUNT WASHINGTON. 



Davis' Spur, 


Distance. 
2 miles 


Bearing. 

S. S. E. 


Height. 
5,400 feet. 


Notch Range, 


8 " 


s. w. 


4,500 " 


Willey Mountain, 


8 " 


s. w. 


4,400 " 


Mt. Jackson, 


6 - 


s. w. 


4,100 " 


Mt. Webster, 


7 " 


W. N. W. 


4,000 - 


Giant's Stairs, 


8 " 


S. 


3,500 - 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 85 



Mt. Crawford, 


Distance. 
9 miles 


Bearing. 

s. w. 


Height. 
3,200 feet. 


Mt. Moriah, 


7 


(( 


N. E. 


4,700 " 


Franconia Mount, 


20 


u 


6. W. 


5,000 " 


Mt. La Fayette, 


19 


<( 


W. S. W. 


5,200 " 


Twin Mountains, 


14 


(( 


w. s. w. 4,700 


, 5,000 » 


Mt. Carigain, 


14 


u 


s. s. w. 


4,800 " 


Moose-hillock, 


31 


(( 


s. w. 


4,600 " 


Saddle Mountain, 


,22 


(( 


s. s. w. 


4,000 " 


Mt. Kinsman, 


25 


it 


w. s. w. 


4,100 " 


Mt. Cannon, 


20 


(( 


w. s. w. 


4,000 " 


Mt. Whiteface, 


24 


(< 


s. by w. 


4,100 " 


Chicorua, 


22 


(( 


s. by E. 


3,600 " 


Kiarsarge, 


15 


t( 


S. E. 


3,400 " 


Double-head, 


11 


(< 


S. E. 


3,100 " 



FRANCONIA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 

The tourist who would enjoy the whole scenery of this 
land of mountains and valleys, must not fail to come or go 
by the way of Franconia. Some of the most prominent 
attractions of the vicinity, situated 28 miles from the 
White Mountain Notch, and known by the above poetic 
title, are the '< Old Man of the Mmmtain" (immortalized 
by Hawthorne,) " The Pool;' " The Flwne;' " Franconia 



86 * THE tourist's guide to the 

Notch,'' " Mount Lafayette,'' *' Ferrin's Pond," (tlie old 
man's wash-bowl,) " The Basin," " The Cascade," " Mt^ 
Cannrm," and " Mt. Eagle." 

THE OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN, 

is a profile of the human face, situated on a peak of solid 
rock one thousand feet high, and nearly perpendicular 
from '■^ Ferrin's Fo7id," known as the "oM man's wash- 
lowl" This profile was discovered about forty years ago, 
while a party was laying out the road that passes it, and a 
guide-board directs the traveler's attention thitherward. 
This likeness is produced by the irregular projection of 
five blocks of granite. Its semblance is quite life-like, 
and is truly a worthy object of wonder. Various Indian 
utensils and relics have been found in that vicinity, which 
inclines to the belief that this with the aborigines was an 
object of superstitious homage. A foot-path from the La- 
fayette House leads directly over the top of the old man's 
head, and sometimes a mortal may be seen standing among 
the bristly hair (bushes) of the old man's foretop. The 
entire height of this profile is sixty feet. 

The Fool is situated midway between the Basin and the 
Flume. It is about a mile from the Flume House, in a 
vrikl, romantic grot, completely walled in by rocky clifls. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 87 

The Flume is about a mile from the main road, and 
nearly in front of the Flume House. A foot-path through 
the woods leads the visitor to the spot. A wild mountain 
torrent, falling over precipitous crags and loose fragments, 
through high walls, between which hangs a vast granite 
boulder, under which the water foams. 

The Bashi is a deep excavation in granite, which has 
been formed by the wearing waters of the Pemmasawasset, 
aided by the action of stones that the stream has swept 
into the cavity. In this Basin is a ledge of rock, so worn 
by the current as to present the form of a leg and foot of 
giant proportions. This is termed the " old man's leg.'' 

The Cascade is below the Flume a short distance. The 
rock here for the distance of sis hundred and twenty feet 
has been polished by the continual current of the stream to 
a surface like glass. 

Mount Lafayette, or the " great hay-stack," is a lofty 
conical pile of granite, 5,580 feet high, situated to the 
south-westward of the village of Franconia. A foot-path 
leads from the Lafayette House to the top, and the view 
from that point is considered but little inferior to the 
prospect from the summit of Mt. "Washington. 

Mount Eagle, on which is an eagle's eyrie, is fifteen hun- 
dred feet high, and rises but a few rods from the Lafayette 



88 THE tourist's guide to the 

House. Echo Lake is about two hundred rods from this 
house, and from its shining waters are taken many of the 
nicest kinds of trout. 

The Flume House is, with the Lafayette House, well cal- 
culated to satisfactorily accommodate all who seek pleasure 
and health in this mountain region ; and taken as a whole, 
we challenge the territory of our Union to furnish for the 
Summer tourist a more desirable retreat than our own 
White Mountain and Fra7iconia Scenery. 

LEr>GTn OF DAYS. 

The days at the summit of Mt. AVashington are about 
forty minutes longer than on the ocean level, in the same 
latitude. 

THUNDER STORMS. 

There were but few thunder storms that approached 
near to the summit ; the greater part of them passing 
below, and following the deep valley or gulfs, that sur- 
round Mt. Washington. But it is a grand sight to behold 
a black cloud passing along, almost beneath your feet, the 
lightning playing through it, and the thunder rolling and 
reverberatino; amono; the neidiborino; mountains, while at 
the same time the sun is shining brightly upon the tops of 
the mountains. Yet such scenes are often witnessed, and 
they fill the mind with awe and wonder 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 



89 



TIIERMOMETRICAL TABLE, AND SYNOPSIS OF THE WJ-:ATIIER, 
&c., &c., AT THE SUMT^lIT OF MT. WASHINGTON, FOR THE 
SEASONS OF 1853-4. PREPARED BY NATHANIEL NOYES 





JUNE, 185c 


. 




JULY, 1853. 


Day. 


Sunrise. 


12 M. 1 Sunset. 


Day. 


Sunrise. 


12 M. 


Sunset. 


8 


32 


40 


34 


1 


43 


55 


45 


9 


31 


45 


40 


2 


32 


46 


38 


10 


38 


52 


48 


3 


44 


53 


48 


11 


44 


47 


43 


4 


52 


60 


54 


12 


32 


48 


44 


5 


42 


51 


42 


13 


43 


56 


47 


6 


39 


48 


39 


14 


48 


60 


55 


7 


29 


47 


37 


15 


53 


59 


55 


8 


38 


50 


49 


16 


54 


62 


55 


9 


41 


49 


45 


17 


54 


56 


52 


10 


45 


50 


45 


18 


43 


48 


40 


11 


45 


54 


48 


19 


39 


49 


42 


12 


40 


52 


45 


20 


50 


66 


58 


13 


38 


49 


45 


21 


48 


57 


50 


14 


42 


59 


49 


22 


54 


58 


55 


15 


52 


62 


51 


23 


58 


60 


55 


16 


51 


56 


52 


24 


56 


42 


. 35 


17 


44 


49 


37 


25 


30 


36 


32 


18 


39 


55 


48 


26 


24 


37 


30 


19 


52 


53 


50 


27 


32 


44 


38 


20 


42 


50 


41 


28 


84 


43 


35 


21 


38 


45 


46 


29 


45 


64 


58 


22 


42 


60 


56 


30 


54 


61 


53 


23 


50 


66 


56 






i 


24 


54 


64 


59 








25 


52 


63 


55 








26 


50 


51 


45 








27 


43 


59 


49 








28 


39 


47 


45 








29 


44 


59 


54 








30 


49 


59 


56 










31 


50 


59 


49 



90 



THE TOURIST S GUIDE TO THE 





AUGUST, 1853. 


SEPTEMBER, 1853. 


Day. 


Sunrise. 


12 M. 


Sunset. 


Day. 


Sunrise. 


12 M. 


Sunset. 


1 


42 


59 


50 


1 


41 


51 


47 


2 


49 


51 


49 


2 


45 


58 


55 


3 


48 


58 


49 


3 


50 


58 


55 


4 


49 


54 


48 


4 


52 


55 


54 


5 


45 


54 


53 


5 


50 


58 


57 


6 


51 


60 


49 


6 


57 


59 


56 


7 


46 


53 


48 


7 


56 


49 


45 


8 


49 


58 


48 


8 


30 


40 


36 


9 


50 


52 


52 


9 


33 


44 


41 


10 


48 


59 


57 


10 


37 


40 


32 


11 


52 


62 


59 


11 


28 


29 


27 


12 


52 


60 


59 


12 


24 


29 


30 


13 


59 


60 


56 


13 


32 


36 


39 


14 


58 


60 


50 


14 


38 


46 


42 


15 


45 


57 


53 


15 


45 


50 


47 


16 


50 


56 


55 


16 


38 


42 




17 


49 


62 


55 










18 


48 


58 


51 










19 


33 


37 


83 










20 


30 


35 


36 










21 


36 


46 


45 










22 


89 


40 


35 










23 


33 


43 


42 










24 


37 


46 


45 










25 


44 


42 


36 










26 


31 


47 


42 










27 


42 


47 


47 










28 


34 


35 


32 










29 


31 


46 


43 










80 


38 


51 


50 










31 


46 


49 


46 











WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 91 

SUMMARY. 

The following is a Synopsis of the Weather during each 
month : 

June, 1853. 

Mean temperature at Sunrise, 

" " " 12 M., 

" " " Sunset, 

Thermometer stood lowest, 26th day, 
" " highest, 20th day, 

July, 1853. 

Average temperature at Sunrise, 

" 12 M., 

" Sunset, 
Thermometer stood highest, 23d day, 
" " lowest, 7th day, 

% August, 1853. 

Average temperature at Sunrise, 
" " 12 M., 

" " " Sunset, 

Thermometer stood highest, 11th day, 
" lowest, 20th day, 

September, 1853. 
Average temperature at Sunrise, 
" 12 M., 
" " " Sunset, 

Thermometer stood highest, Gth day, 
" lowest, 12 th day. 



43.3 


deg. 


53.5 


(( 


45.7 


(( 


24 


(( 


66 


(( 


43.5 


deg. 


54.2 


u 


47.7 


(( 


66 


(( 


29 


(( 


44 


deg. 


51.5 


(( 


47.5 


(( 


62 


(( 


30 


(( 


43.2 deg. 


46.8 


(C 


44.2 


(C 


59 


(( 


24 


u 



92 



THE TOURIST 3 GUIDE TO THE 





JUNE, 


1854 




^ 


JULY, 1854. 












Self- 




6 






Self. 




i 


S 
S 


■J 


Register 




1 




o 


Register 


1 


1 




during 
night. 


ft 


a 


1 


during 
night. 


10 


44 


46 


40 


36 


1 


40 


42 


42 


39 


11 


38 


46 


45 


38 


2 


40 


48 


48 


48 


12 


42 


52 


47 


42 


3 


54 


58 


58 


53 


13 


48 


58 


48 


44 


4 


54 


60 


60 


54 


14 


46 


54 


45 


45 


5 


54 


54 


50 


40 


15 


46 


52 


46 


41 


6 


40 


48 


46 


46 


16 


42 


46 


86 


29 


7 


49 


56 


58 


50 


17 


31 


41 


42 


42 


8 


50 


57 


56 


56 


18 


48 


54 


51 


48 


9 


60 


60 


54 


45 


19 


49 


54 


52 


46 


10 


45 


50 


48 


40 


20 


46 


51 


42 


40 


1 11 


40 


56 


56 


45 


21 


43 


57 


50 


45 


i 12 


46 


54 


46 


31 


22 


50 


57 


50 


45 


I 13 


32 


51 


47 


44 


23 


46 


49 


48 


44 


1 14 


44 


^58 


51 


50 


24 


44 


48 


46 


39 


1 15 


50 


62 


54 


50 


25 


39 


44 


36 


33 


! 16 


50 


64 


58 


53 


26 


34 


48 


44 


36 


! 17 


54 


62. 


57 


46 


27 


42 


52 


47 


46 


18 


48 


50 


55 


55 


28 


54 


58 


56 


36 


19 


55 


63 


61 


55 


29 


36 


54 


48 


42 


1 20 


56 


70 


63 


57 


30 


46 


46 


46 


40 


! 21 


58 


60 


58 


51 












1 22 


52 


62 


58 


52 












23 


54 


55 


57 


51 












24 


53 


56 


• 54 


54 












25 


54 


60 


55 


54 












26 


56 


60 


54 


39 










j 


27 


39 


45 


40 


38 










' 


28 


41 


50 


49 


45 












29 


48 


49 


52 


45 












30 


47 


48 


44 


40 












31 


40 


50 


51 


48 



WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 



93 





AUGUST, 


1854. 


SEPTEMBER, 1854. 




1 


1^' 


i 

S3 


Self- 
Register 
during 
night. 


^ 
p 


1 




1 

a 


Self- 
Register 
during 
night. 


1 


50 


61 


56 


52 


1 


48 


52 


50 




2 


54 


51 


46 


36 


2 


38 


50 


50 




3 


38 


40 


45 


44 


3 


51 


52 


51 




4 


46 


47 


46 


43 


4 


40 


50 


49 




5 


45 


56 


54 


47 


5 


54 


60 


59 




6 


47 


54 


45 


31 


6 


58 


64 


57 




7 


33 


38 


36 


32 


7 


52 


49 


42 




8 


33 


42 


38 


32 


8 


33 


41 


45 




9 


34 


66 


48 


36 


9 


46 


45 


43 




10 


38 


56 


50 


44 


10 


32 


42 


34 




11 


45 


60 


54 


49 


11 


32 


46 


46 




12 


49 


52 


52 


51 


12 


40 


48 


46 




13 


52 


54 


51 


33 


13 


30 


40 


45 




14 


33 


34 


36 


32 


14 


36 


42 


38 




15 


41 


47 


45 


44 


15 


40 


40 


32 




16 


48 


55 


49 


48 


16 


36 






17 


48 


55 


48 


46 










18 


47 


50 


40 


39 










19 


39 


58 


48 


44 










20 


45 


59 


50 


46 










21 


46 


50 


48 


40 










22 


42 


49 


40 


30 










23 


30 


54 


52 


50 










24 


50 


56 


50 


36 










25 


36 


40 


38 


38 










26 


39 


44 


46 


45 










27 


46 


44 


38 


39 










28 


39 


48 


43 


39 










29 


39 


56 


60 


48 










30 


48 


50 


57 


51 










31 


51 


56 


60 


48 


': 


^ 









94 



THE TOURIST S GUIDE TO THE 



SUMMARY. 



The fbllowiug is a synopsis of the weather during each 
month : 

June, 1854. 

Mean temperature at sunrise, 43.5 deg. 

« 12 M., 50.8 

" sunset, 46 
" '' by self-register during night, 40.8 

of the month, 45.3 

Coldest day, 17th mean, 38 

Warmest day, 28th mean, 56 

Range of thermometer, 29 

Thermometer highest 13th and 28th, 58 

lowest 16th, 29 

Northerly winds prevailed 16 days. 

Southerly " " 5 days. 

Clear, and mostly clear, 12 days. 

Cloudy, and mostly cloudy, 11 days. 

Rainy, part or all of the day, 5 days. 



July, 1854. 




ean temperature at sunrise. 


4G.9 de, 


" 12 M., 


53.9 - 



WHITE MOUNTYINS AND FRANCONIA. 95 



Mean temjDerature at sunset, 51.5 
" «' by self-register during night, 46.2 

" '♦ of the month, 49.6 

Coldest day, 27th mean, 40.5 

Warmest day, 20th mean, 61.5 

Range of thermometer, 39 

Thermometer highest, 20th, 70 

lowest, 13th, 31 

Northerly winds prevailed 25 days. 

Southerly " " 6 days. 

Clear, and mostly clear, 22 days. 

Cloudy, and mostly cloudy, 9 days. 

Rainy, part or all of the day, 5 days. 

August, 1854. 

Mean temperature at sunrise, 43 deg, 

" 12 M., 51 

" " sunset, 45.8 

" " by self-register during night, 41 

of the month, 45.2 

Coldest day, 14th mean, 34 

Warmest day, 1st mean, 55 

Range of Thermometer, 36 

Thermometer highest, 9th, 66 



96 THE tourist's guide to the 

Thermometer lowest, 22d, oO cleg. 

Northerly winds prevailed, 30 days. 

Southerly " " 1 day. 

Clear, and mostly clear, 26 days. 

Cloudy, and mostly cloudy, 5 days. 

Rainy, part or all of the day, 3 days. 



September, 1854. 

Mean temperature at sunrise, 
" 12 M., 
" " " sunset, 

" " for the month, 

Coldest day, 10th mean. 

Warmest day, 6th mean, 

Eange of Thermometer, 

Thermometer highest, 6th, 
lowest, 16th, 

Northerly winds prevailed, 14 days. 

Southerly " " 1 day. 

Clear, and mostly clear, 10 days. 

Cloudy, and mostly cloudy, 5 days. 

Rainy, part or all day, 4 days. 



42 


deg. 


48 


u 


45.8 


(( 


45.3 


(( 


36 


u 


59.7 


a 


58 


(< 


64 


(( 


6 


u 



ROUTES AND DISTANCES 

FROM 

"BS^TOTZ TO "WHXTIE BIOIJilXrTAXIMS. 

From Boston to Portland, ______ lOo miles. 

" Portland to Alpine House, Gorham, N. II., via Atlantic 

& St. Lawrence Eailroad, - - - - - 01 " " 

" Alpine House to Glen House, at base of Mt. Washington, 8 " 

19G miles by Railroad, 8 miles by stage, - - 204 " 

COCHECO ROUTE. 

From Boston to Dover, via Boston & Maine liailroad, - 68 miles. 
" Dover to Alton Bay, -------28" 

" Alton Bay to Centre Hai'bor, by steamer, - - 30 " 
" Centre Harbor to Crawford House, - - - - 56 " 

96 miles by Eailroad, 30 by Steamer, 56 by Stage, 182 " 

ROUTE via WEIRS AND CENTRE HARBOR. 
From Boston to Weirs, ------- 103 mile?. 

" Weirs to Centre Harbor, - - - - - - 10 " 

" Centre Harbor to Conw^ay, ----- 30 " 

" Conway to Crawford House, - - - - - 24 " 

103 miles by Eailroad, 10 by Steamer, 54 by Stage, 167 " 

From Boston to Plymouth, N. H., by Eailroad, - - 124 miles. 
" Plymouth to Flume House, Franconia Notch, by stage, 24 " 
" Flume House to Profile House, - - - _ 5 " 

" Profile House to White Mountain House, - - - 26 " 
" White IMountain House to Crawford House, - - 5 " 

" Crawford House to Willey House, - - - - 2 '= 

ROUTE via WELLS RIVER AND LITTLETON, N. H. 

From Boston to Wells Eiver, ------ 162 miles. 

" Wells Eiver to Littleton, ------ 20 '■ 

'' Littleton to Crawford House, ----- 23 " 

182 miles by Eailroad, 23 by Stage, - - - 205 " 

ROUTE via SEBAGO LAKE. 

From Boston to Portland, ------ 105 miles. 

" Portland to Staudish, ------- 16 " 

" Standish to Bridgeton, by steamer, - - _ 28 " 

" Bridgeton to Conway, _-.-_- 21 " 
" Conway to Crawford House, ----- 24 " 

115 miles by Eailroad, 51 by Stage, 28 by Steamer, 194 " 

DISTA^'CE FROM DIFFERENT HoUSES TO SUMJIIT OF Mt. WASIIING- 

TO>'. — From Alpine House, by carriage 3 miles, ponies 6 mile?, 9 miles. 
From Glea House, by ponies, 6 miles. From Crawford House, by 
pomes, 8 miles. From White Jlountain House, by carriage 6 mlle.-^., 
ponies 3 1-2 miles, 9 1-2 miles. 



Summit House, Mt. Washington, N. H. 

The undersigned having purchased and connected the 

TIP-W AND SiUllT HOUSES, 

Hope to be able to accommodate satisfactorily all who 
visit this romantic and popular Summer Resort. 
The House is situated within a few feet of the highest peak 
of the Mountain, is 

Eix tlionsand two hundred and eiglity-five feet above the level of the sea ! 

And commands a grand view of the whole group of the White 
Mountains, numerous Lakes and Rivers, the Ocean, City of 
Portland, and Towns and Villages in all directions. A view of 
the scenery from the summit during the day is truly sublime, 
and those spending the night here, are amply repaid with a 
fine prospect at sunrise and sunset, and Telescopic views of the 
Moon and Stars during the evening. 

Parties wishing to visit Tuckerman's Ravine, " Gulf of Mex- 
ico," Lake of the Clouds, Star Lake, or any other interesting 
locality in the vicinity, will be furnished with an experienced 
Guide, by the Proprietors. 

The Houses at the base of the jMountains are unsurpassed for 
comfort and elegance. Persons desirous of obtaining a good 
VIEW of the whole ^Mountain Scenery, should ascend from one 
side, pass the night upon the summit, and descend by the 
opposite side. 

The Summit House will be opened to receive company, 
June 15th, 1855. 

SPAULDING & Co., 

PROPRIETORS. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 983 761 7 # 



